Pro Beta for Sloe Children

[Crillz]

First - you can PM me so this doesn't spoil anyone's true onsight.

 

I've never climbed the pitch, but have heard you need a bunch of the same size in the yellow or red alien range. I know it's different for climbing ability, but how many of each? 4 each? I'm not sure how much 5.10d there actually is, but this grade will be pushing it for me on lead.

 

Roughly speaking:

Yellow Alien = Yellow Metolious = .4 C4

Red Alien = Orange Metolious = .5 C4

 

Thanks for the info.

[dbb]

if someone is looking at a thread called "Pro Beta for Sloe Children" I think they know what they're going to get.

 

The only 10d is on the last couple moves (any maybe the first move? seems different for everyone). If you can place a nut from a perfect 10b finger lock, you only need a double set of cams up to .75 and a set of nuts. The real beta is that your last (crux) piece is going to be a blue metolius, #1 C3 (red), a green alien or a #5-6 nut. Have fun going for the OS of that last move!!

[kurthicks]

It's been years, I remember placing a blue alien at the crux, right before I blew my onsight...

[sparkytheflash]

that gear beta is sound i think i sowed it up with one blue alien, 4 green aliens, 4 yellow aliens, 2 orange metolius and 1 .75. it took me forever to get that damn climb because of my lame footwork on that last move. the last time i did it went down like i levatated the move thanks to an awsome cold friction day. that is super key for the os, excelent friction conditions. this season i want to go for the god to city to sloe children linkup. i can tell you i won't be sowing it up like i did on the redpoint. all i need to find is a belayer thats willing to belay with a gri gri while simlclimbing godzilla. that's when that last move will be hard again for me with 60 to 70m of rope hanging off my balls.

[Kimmo]

and when you're up there fiddling around with that last piece, then going for the moves, think about dave moroles soloing the thing.

[ivan]

i remember solo-aiding it that the final piece was the most annoying - i seem to recall a tiny nut worked

[NTM]

from the base of the open-book to the top, i plug one of each metolius from orange to purple in a row, that stiches 'er up like a mighty fine surgeon.