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corvallisclimb

Oregon Pinnacles

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corvallisclimb-when my computer skills increase I will send some pics and stories of Oregon pinnacle climbing in the 60's on the East side of the Menagerie. sls

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Here are a few that are near The Dalles.

Tottering Tower

Tottering_Tower_enhanced.JPG

 

The Bump

The_Bump_near_The_Dalles_in_Columbia_River_Gorge.JPG

 

The Bump looking west

The_Bump_from_the_east.JPG

 

Apollo Column Rick McDonald sitting in the notch at base

Rick_sitting_in_the_notch_next_to_Apollo_Column.JPG

 

Apollo Column defined

Rick_Apollo_Column_defined.JPG

 

Hiking to The Bump

Geoff_hiking_to_The_Bump_2.JPG

 

Geoff Silverman after leading Fire Spire

Fire_Spire_Geoff_Silverman_after_lead.JPG

 

Fire Spire was the best rock out of the group of spires so far.

Fire_Spire_3.JPGFire_Spire_1.JPG

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I took this picture a few years ago in the Ochoco Mountains in central Oregon. What is this?

small2.jpg

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Beginning 0900 SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 25

There will be an Adopt A Crag Day at Rattlesnakes (Rogue)hosted by Southern Oregon University, the Access Fund, and BLM.

Contact is Willie Long (williewiggler@gmail.com)

Our goal is to clean up the base of the climbing area and the access road, reestablish parts of the access trail after logging, and replace some anchors. We are planning on a half day of work with (weather allowing) a half day of climbing.

greg

Edited by g orton

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I just had hernia surgery and now I'm stuck on the couch getting high percocet and staring out the window at the sun... So as I sit here wishing I could be outside playing, lets see those Oregon Pinnacle pictures I now everyone has!!!

 

menagerieparty009.jpg

Jeff Thomas on "Dreamboat Annie" 5.7+ on The Royal Arch

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I took this picture a few years ago in the Ochoco Mountains in central Oregon. What is this?

small2.jpg

 

Oh hey pcg sorry for the slow response, that is the Twin Pillars in the Mill Creek Wilderness. There are some more pictures of climbing on that pile of crap on some of the previous pages in the thread.

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i wanna hear a tr for the kangaroo, it can't be as grim as the smiff guide says, eh?!

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Nah the Roo aint that bad... Some really loose and rotten rock but with the help of BShmitz we replaced the bolts last year. A 20ft 5.7 solo leads into amphitheater on the north side and scramble to belay bolt in the Roo/Joey notch. Then Chimney up the the first bolt and traverse past 3 or 4 more bolts (5.7) and a crappy fixed pin to an anchor on a slab. An easy 5.3 pitch leads to the summit. I think there is a sling on top, sometimes there hasn't been tho, so if not just down climb to the anchor and rappel. 1 rope puts you back in the the alcove, 2 puts you on the ground. I think if you had a 70 you'd get all the way to the ground with one. A fun big old school tower. It's a shame that 99% of the rock on that tower is crap because if not it would be home to lots of cool routes... Oh well!

 

DSCF2483.JPG

BSchmitz on belay duty in the notch.

 

DSCF2496.JPG

Enjoying a nice lunch out in da Marsupials

 

 

I've aided a couple cool steep and thin cracks on the south face of the Roo, to provide access establish some hard sport routes with a friend. If your desperate for something to nail I could give ya the beta... You'd want prolly 20+ beaks though.

 

35104877.jpg

Beaking the Roo

 

33343622.jpg

Wilbur lookin for free potential.

 

photo2xri.jpg

Hmmm is this thing big enough to keep me off the deck?!?!

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i was so broken-off-at-the-bend last weekend i'da qualied at a bolt ladder :)

 

i'm inspired now though, so next time it's goign down :rawk:

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31359510150391320454874.jpg

Pete Guagliardo follows the first pitch on the South Rabbit Ear, while Brian Gilbert & Greg Orton rack up at the base. October 2011. Photo: Chris Winter Esq.

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some amazing stuff here but that last one - holy shit g orton, that's the best shot of the monster I've ever seen...where was it taken from??

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Southface_TurkeyMonster.jpg

 

One of the most amazing photos of a pinnacle I have ever seen let alone of the Turkey Os Baculum. I am wondering if my phalic reference offends Argetino Gaucho?

Edited by shapp

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View from the Summit of Squaw Rock at Smith Rocks.

Squaw_Summit.jpeg

 

Sorry about the quality of my dumb phone camera...

 

There is a rap anchor on the top now (would guess that Tyler has something to do with that), but hauling a rope out there is not worth it imo. Easy solo up and down with the hardest stuff right at the start.

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McKinley Rock, Southern Lane Co. as seen from the air over the Umpqua with Tyler Adams

MRJune2012.jpg

Edited by g orton

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