Avocado ...

[justinp]

I also have a love hate relationship with my grigri. The Eddy looks similar in design to the gri gri so what makes it better for rope soloing?

[JosephH]

It isn't. The cam works differently and it threads the reverse of a grigri. If both rope ends are hanging down it basically can't lock up. Oh, and if something snags the handle and pulls it back all the way it relocks on the rope.

[justinp]

It isn't. The cam works differently and it threads the reverse of a grigri. If both rope ends are hanging down it basically can't lock up.

 

So the rope moves freely through the device as u move up (u don’t have to manually un cam the device as u move up like with a grigri)?

[justinp]

I was reminded again over the last few days how much solo aiding sucks with a grigri The thing is a pain in my ass as it needs to be managed nearly every step. As a result, I may be buying something new shortly. The Eddy looks like the best choice as it feeds smoothly. However, if I understand how the device works, you have to pack the rope on your back. This is an inconvenience if you are free climbing, but who wants to pack all the gear for a aid climb and the rope? So is there another solution or should I just wipe the sand out of my vag?

[ivan]

the gri annoys me too but it's not so bad i'd want to go packing the rope of me for the reason you say - i've been okay w/ just fitting the gri check into the cycle of upward progress - place - test - check gri - move

 

i do love it's tendency, especially as more rope is out, to take away whatever slack you had in when you go to do the check

[justinp]

the gri annoys me too but it's not so bad i'd want to go packing the rope of me for the reason you say - i've been okay w/ just fitting the gri check into the cycle of upward progress - place - test - check gri - move

 

So u are paying some slack out before moving up. Did not think of that...

 

i do love it's tendency, especially as more rope is out, to take away whatever slack you had in when you go to do the check

 

Yes! The suck factor increases exponentially the higher u get up

[corvallisclimb]

i've soloed loads of crap witha gri gri and know tons of people who have done way more.... if your doing aid moves and just stepping up in your ladders its way easy to feed the slack as you stand up because you only need one hand to pull you up and one hand to slack the gri gri... pretty simple. i usually just keep one backup knot tied in the rope no more than 20ft below me so it doesnt snag on shit. i never carry the extra rope with me unless it is some crazy free clibming pitch i know it would get hung up in otherwise just keep in in a rope bag at the belay. you can use rubberbands mid pitch on long pitches to take weight off the rope knowing the rubber band will break if you fall... or clove hitch a bomber bolt or rivet. for free climbing just pull out enough slack so you can get to the next stance where you can pull out more slack wich often times can be 20+ feet. yes this is dangerous but thats soloing. try not to fall. your prolly more prone to fall fucking around with the grigri from a shitty stance trying to pull slack. i try and keep it simple my grigri on a triangular steel quick link to prevent cross loading. one back up knot tied in the rope only clipped to my harness on hard aid. if you really want to free climb a lot mabey invest in a silent partner but other wise grigris are fine. my friend soloed zodiac in 12 hours with a grigri. again keep it simple, dont think about it too much or soloing will become a pain in the ass. also dont fall unless you really have to, most people dont fall soling, charlie porter soloed tons of walls and never fell soloing, his system was using 2 prussiks and grabbing the rope with his teeth to feed slack. or charles cole who used a stich plate and a grigri in some death system where falling could rip the sheath. it could be worse.

[JosephH]

I use the Eddy for roped-solo free climbing, but I use an unmodded grigri for solo aid.

[justinp]

So I should just wipe the sand out of my vag... Thanks guys

[JosephH]

[kevbone]

Aiding is aid.

[pink]

 

 

so say's chongo joseph

[JosephH]

So says Pete 'PTPP' Zabrok - it's his (but he helped Chongo with his book). And I suppose a Lockerian "yer all gonna die...!" is in order here...

 

Quiz: How many locking carabiners are involved with this system?

[denalidave]

So much for keeping it simple...

[corvallisclimb]

or do this

 

Edited January 6, 2010 by corvallisclimb

[justinp]

or do this

 

 

Never mind Tyler I aint got it so bad

[ivan]

that don't look like no fun at all

 

what's that big bastard being used in place of the gri?

[justinp]

I think it's a silent partner. Retail price $243

[denalidave]

I think it's a silent partner.

 

Yep.

[LostCamKenny]

or do this

 

 

wow that looks like an organized, yet still jumbled, shitty mess...!