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Posted
"i've got madonnas big dick coming out of my left ear and toby the jap, i-don't-know-what, coming out of my right..."

daddy did you see that? - vic was rolling 'roudn on the floor w/ me and he tied to fuck me!

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Posted
is that john wayne? is this me?

you strike me as the kind of man who'd fuck a complete stranger in the ass and not have the goddamn human courtesy to give him a reach around!

Posted
"i've got madonnas big dick coming out of my left ear and toby the jap, i-don't-know-what, coming out of my right..."

daddy did you see that? - vic was rolling 'roudn on the floor w/ me and he tied to fuck me!

if you guys wanna roll around on the floor you go into eddie's office...

Posted
For all you old timers out there that climb at Beacon......the first pitch of the corner had two pins in it.....anyone remember where?

 

i'm guessing that neither pin were on the last two pitches, yes?

 

 

I said old timers.....

Posted

When I catch up with an old timer I'll ask him about this. Dean Caldwell is still around, but that might go poorly.

 

Hey Dean: "I got a climbing question fer ya" (Spoken in a high falsetto pitch Jerry Lewis type of voice)

 

Dean: "Ask away young fella, you're going to ask me about 28 days on a new El Cap route with a drunken Warren Harding while the eyes of the entire world stopped and rested on us aren't you...."

 

Still in a high pitch Jerry Lewis voice: "Uhhh, no dude, don't know nothin' about that" "Hey, on the SE Corner of Beacon there was 2 pins on the first pitch, do you remember where they were?"

 

Dean: "WTF, WHERE?! Corner? (thinks he's being played) Hey, get the hell out of here you jackass" (proceeds to hit whippersnapper with cane ...)

 

Scene flows to black....

Posted
Who the hell is Dean Caldwell?

Old Beacon climber...West Face of Monkey....more if you need it....

 

Poke

old-man-with-cane1.jpg

____________________________________________________________

below (not above) others noticed, even if you didn't.

 

 

 

Back then, top of El Cap, Dean Caldwell and Warren Harding. Ask Pink what this was.

denny_el_cap.jpg

Glen Denny photo

Posted
Since I'm not fully geared up for ice, I've had the big B all to myself the past couple days. Down right balmy with no wind.

watcha done?

Just runnin the corner and getting the rope solo thingy figured out. Still fun though.
Posted
Dave, what are you using for rope solo, what device?
I'm hoping Santa brings me an Eddy, like JH uses. For now, just doing clove hitch and back-up knots. Pretty straight forward but I don't think I would want to do it that way on anything harder than the corner, which I have ruthlessly dialed. Thought about getting the Cinch but it does not work with bigger ropes. I tinkered with the silent partner last year but think I like the Eddy set-up better, even though I have not tried one yet. I'm hoping I can be a bad ass like JH and do some harder solos once I get the system dialed in. Any other suggestions?
Posted

For a number of years I used a grigri with the triangle tab by the biner hole removed before getting an Eddy. The grigri was servicable enough for all the roped solos I've done except Dods. That I'll only do it with an Eddy, SP, or Soloist (but don't care too much for the latter two). The grigri just cranks you up short too often for my taste, however.

Posted

i fucking hate soloing w/ a gri - i call it the grigrimonster, and it must be feed often or it will have it's revenge - that said, it does work (though sometimes it looks godawful fucked up after you take a fall on it) and is very versatile for also belaying, jugging, hauling and short-fixing - if i win the lottery someday maybe i'll try onna ya'lls fancy devices :)

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