Plaidman Posted July 4, 2012 Posted July 4, 2012 You mean YW isn't open? That climb is no where those damn rats with wings. My wife says rats are cute too. But what does she know! Quote
froodish Posted July 4, 2012 Posted July 4, 2012 What's the skinny with Beacon night climbs? I've always wanted to do a run up the corner under a full moon. Do they actually lock that gate? If so, what's the recommended descent, rap? aid around the gate, just party on grassy until morning? I assume you have to park down the road and not in the parking lot? TIA, -S Quote
denalidave Posted July 4, 2012 Posted July 4, 2012 What's the skinny with Beacon night climbs? I've always wanted to do a run up the corner under a full moon. Do they actually lock that gate? If so, what's the recommended descent, rap? aid around the gate, just party on grassy until morning? I assume you have to park down the road and not in the parking lot? TIA, -S Technically, you are supposed to register for a "bivy" but night climbing is ok. I suggest you go introduce yourself to the rangers and let them know you may be out past dark. Then, leave a note on your car to let the rangers know you are out there. Otherwise, they will assume the worse and wonder where you are. I've gotten mixed advice from the rangers in regard to parking overnight... One ranger told me it was ok to park overnight with a Discovery Pass. Another ranger left me a warning and told me to contact them when they found my car there early in the morning last summer. When I told her the Discover Pass covered the overnight parking fee, I was told it does not. Sure seems like a double dip if you are already paying for parking with the Discovery Pass... why would you need to pay an additional over night parking fee? Anywho, the best bet is to keep the rangers in the loop or park outside the park so as not to be on their radar. Quote
Plaidman Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 Aiding around the gate is not that hard. I've done it in my flip-flops. Quote
kevbone Posted July 5, 2012 Author Posted July 5, 2012 What's the skinny with Beacon night climbs? I've always wanted to do a run up the corner under a full moon. Do they actually lock that gate? If so, what's the recommended descent, rap? aid around the gate, just party on grassy until morning? I assume you have to park down the road and not in the parking lot? TIA, -S In 16 years of climbing at Beacon I have seen the gate locked one time. Quote
JosephH Posted July 5, 2012 Posted July 5, 2012 Aiding around the gate is not that hard. I've done it in my flip-flops. Kevin is right, the gate is rarely ever closed, but when it is they don't want you coming down that way. If you do, be careful, it's not difficult as Plaid says, but it would suck big time if you fucked it up in the dark. Quote
kevbone Posted July 5, 2012 Author Posted July 5, 2012 Just keep your harness on and use your daisy chain. Then there is no risk. Quote
Plaidman Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 If a climber can't figure out how to get around that gate, they should just give up on climbing and stay home. Quote
JosephH Posted July 6, 2012 Posted July 6, 2012 Seen people fuck up simpler things than swinging the gate...just sayin' Quote
froodish Posted July 9, 2012 Posted July 9, 2012 Thanks for the tips. We'll be on our toes if we have to aid around the gate ;-) If the Ranger isn't near the parking area, where can they be found? Quote
denalidave Posted July 9, 2012 Posted July 9, 2012 You mean YW isn't open? That climb is no where those damn rats with wings. My wife says rats are cute too. Is that why she married you? Quote
kevbone Posted July 10, 2012 Author Posted July 10, 2012 She's opening Friday morning... Great. Never should have closed. Quote
JosephH Posted July 10, 2012 Posted July 10, 2012 She's opening Friday morning... Great. Never should have closed. Refreshingly consistent, frank, honest, and sincere - people may say whatever else about you, but you are a 'Beacon' in that way and I admire and respect that about you. And in this case I personally agree with [a version of] that; but given the closure is entirely consistent with every other AF-accepted raptor closure in the nation in scale, scope, policy, and management it just isn't going to happen on any legal or policy basis no matter what volume of whining or yelling is proffered. Personal beliefs and feelings (yours, mine, anyone's) simply don't enter into the matter and, given your wife is an attorney who's frequently involved with government, you know that as well as anyone. Quote
Teh Phuzzy Posted July 10, 2012 Posted July 10, 2012 She's opening Friday morning... Guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend. Quote
kevbone Posted July 10, 2012 Author Posted July 10, 2012 She's opening Friday morning... Great. Never should have closed. Refreshingly consistent, frank, honest, and sincere - people may say whatever else about you, but you are a 'Beacon' in that way and I admire and respect that about you. And in this case I personally agree with [a version of] that; but given the closure is entirely consistent with every other AF-accepted raptor closure in the nation in scale, scope, policy, and management it just isn't going to happen on any legal or policy basis no matter what volume of whining or yelling is proffered. Personal beliefs and feelings (yours, mine, anyone's) simply don't enter into the matter and, given your wife is an attorney who's frequently involved with government, you know that as well as anyone. I am planning on trying to be there on Friday morning. See you there. Quote
denalidave Posted July 11, 2012 Posted July 11, 2012 BUMP. WOOT! See all you Beatards this weekend... [video:vimeo] Quote
cja Posted July 11, 2012 Posted July 11, 2012 Bugger all. I'm leaving Thursday morning, but I'll be in the Tetons within a couple days of your first laps on the corner. Enjoy it. I'll look to get on Beacon in October when I'm back. Quote
Teh Phuzzy Posted July 12, 2012 Posted July 12, 2012 Anyone headed out from PDX tomorrow morning? Still looking for a ride out that way. Quote
JosephH Posted July 12, 2012 Posted July 12, 2012 I will be, but you may be stoned on arrival by association, though I suppose I could slow down to a safe tuck-and-roll speed at the west end of the parking lot and no one would be the wiser. Quote
denalidave Posted July 13, 2012 Posted July 13, 2012 Anyone headed out from PDX tomorrow morning? Still looking for a ride out that way. Look me up when you get out here. Quote
JosephH Posted July 13, 2012 Posted July 13, 2012 Just spoke with the park to clarify and was told the rock will be open to climbing and the signage changed out at the park's normal 8am open time. Quote
kevbone Posted July 13, 2012 Author Posted July 13, 2012 Stoke stoke stoke. Planning on getting there about 9 am with Arent. Quote
ivan Posted July 13, 2012 Posted July 13, 2012 Anyone headed out from PDX tomorrow morning? Still looking for a ride out that way. just got back an hour ago, dood - can you get to camas? gimme a call? Quote
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