justinp Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 I think we got off route somewhere? If you had to choose your favorite climb at Beacon, what would it be? Young Warriors. Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 Justin. Have you climbed Young Warriors? Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 but have you done the final, final pitch of Young Warriors. Where when you join the SE corner route, instead of joining it, you traverse right around the corner and then up a ways to a pin and then thru some scary hanging blocks and then onto the last bit of the SE corner? Because I was told I hadn't climbed Young Warriors until I did that pitch....so i did it, but I don't think I'll do it again. Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 Many times. Believe it or not....Arent and I have the second complete accent of Young Warriors from ground to summit. Quote
JosephH Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 but have you done the final, final pitch of Young Warriors. Where when you join the SE corner route, instead of joining it, you traverse right around the corner and then up a ways to a pin and then thru some scary hanging blocks and then onto the last bit of the SE corner? Because I was told I hadn't climbed Young Warriors until I did that pitch....so i did it, but I don't think I'll do it again. Huh? Wait, that is the final (albeit short) pitch of YW, the other way is finishing the Corner up to the base of the ridge ramp. Never really thought about those blocks as 'hanging' or loose in any way. I'd say consider not worrying about them, they're fine, and that pin is fine, too. The real question is: do you move up and left at the last bolt doing the 'Opdycke finish' or bail up and right around the corner? Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 Straight up JH. If you reach up and left right where it gets desperate...there is a side pull that makes is all worth it. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 He can say "Fuck off you jackass" and I can't rally back with some banter. Whatever. But I do agree with you. I am being a dick and climbing grades are subjective. I just remember Plaidman doing a trip report on The Smith Rock Detour.....which was/is so fucking gay....and I guess I'm not really over it yet. Booooooring... throw mud back at him. Banter about beacon = poetry Quote
LostCamKenny Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 but have you done the final, final pitch of Young Warriors. The pin is tricky to find at first, but once you've found it, clipped it and stepped up to the bolt you're home. Running it all the way up the ridge is the only way to do it!!! Quote
Plaidman Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 (edited) I know the one. It gets me every time. About half way up. It makes it the hardest 5.8 anywhere. Plaidman The hardest 5.8 anywhere? Riiiight. Let me guess, the opening moves on Nine Gallon makes it the hardest 5.9 anywhere, right? A grade is a grade is a grade.... Fuck off you jackass "Fuck off you jackass"...well, it's like this Plaidman. One might want to spend some time "free climbing" in multiple areas before he/she starts spouting off delusions of grandeur about their home crags. Ever climb a 5.8 at The City? How about 5.8 in the northeast? I've read a portion of your Valley manifesto--I mean trip report--so there is evidence that you've climbed outside of Oregon...so you should know better. Here is the list of my climbs and climbing areas: South Platte Colorado several crags including Turkey Rocks and Buck Snort Slab. Too many others to mention. Eldorado Canyon Several Routes including Re-Written Rocky Mountain National Park - Petit Grepon Lumpy Ridge - Several Routes including Kor's Flake. Perhaps you should read my trip report on the Wolf's Tooth. Shelf Road Garden of the Gods Castlewood Canyon The Flatirons Clear Creek Canyon Golden Cliffs Vedauwoo Wy. Colorado National Monument - Independence Monument Indian Creek 4x Yosemite 3x Squamish once Oregon and Washington Crags: Smith Rock Trout Creek Pete's Pile Bulo Point Broughtons Bluff Carver Rocky Butte Beacon Rock Index Exit 38 Lyle Crag Ozone So based on my list I am of the opinion that Little Wing has one move that is a little harder than 5.8 That is my opinion and opinions are like assholes. Everyone has one and they all stink. Plaidman Edited October 28, 2009 by Plaidman Quote
Plaidman Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 I know the one. It gets me every time. About half way up. It makes it the hardest 5.8 anywhere. Plaidman The hardest 5.8 anywhere? Riiiight. Let me guess, the opening moves on Nine Gallon makes it the hardest 5.9 anywhere, right? A grade is a grade is a grade.... Fuck off you jackass "Fuck off you jackass"...well, it's like this Plaidman. One might want to spend some time "free climbing" in multiple areas before he/she starts spouting off delusions of grandeur about their home crags. Ever climb a 5.8 at The City? How about 5.8 in the northeast? I've read a portion of your Valley manifesto--I mean trip report--so there is evidence that you've climbed outside of Oregon...so you should know better. dude, don't be such a dick... it's his opinion and he's entitled it and i don't believe he was speaking on your behalf. plaid is a cool guy out having fun and that's why we all like to climb in the first place. i do believe he's from colorado where i'm certain there are some pretty stout 5.8's. it's all subjective anyhow, i'm sure your a cool guy but jeebus "the city" out "east" get real dude it's all about having fun and not exploiting what u love. WOW thanks Pink. Quote
Plaidman Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 He can say "Fuck off you jackass" and I can't rally back with some banter. Whatever. But I do agree with you. I am being a dick and climbing grades are subjective. I just remember Plaidman doing a trip report on The Smith Rock Detour.....which was/is so fucking gay....and I guess I'm not really over it yet. Hey Backclipped - I have admit that I just got into some shit with my lunatic X-wife and I was a little steamed about that when I read your comment. Sometimes I should just keep my mouth shut when I am pissed off. Sorry dude. Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 Backclipped.....what is your favorite climb at Beacon? Quote
backclipped Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 Beacon? This is where I take a big "gulp" lather my foot with tobasco and insert: I've never touched rock on your side of the choss piles. I've never been to Pete's Pile, Bulo, Frenchmen's, Ozone...or Beacon. In fact I never go to that side of the state unless my fiance drags me to some cultural event happening in Portland. I'm from New England and have a strong disdain for wet seeping things. So, Kevbone, I don't have a favorite climb at Beacon--unveiled as a fraud on page nine of your post.......... Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 You should edit your page posts..... I am on page 4. Fraud....no big deal. Next time you are out....get ahold of any of the local Beacon crew and take a lap on the corner. Very cool place to climb. K Quote
JosephH Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 Well, then what is your favorite climb in NE? I spent a couple of years there climbing at Cannon, Ragged, Joe English, Crow Hill, and the Gunks. Hard to beat. Quote
backclipped Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 He can say "Fuck off you jackass" and I can't rally back with some banter. Whatever. But I do agree with you. I am being a dick and climbing grades are subjective. I just remember Plaidman doing a trip report on The Smith Rock Detour.....which was/is so fucking gay....and I guess I'm not really over it yet. Hey Backclipped - I have admit that I just got into some shit with my lunatic X-wife and I was a little steamed about that when I read your comment. Sometimes I should just keep my mouth shut when I am pissed off. Sorry dude. I apologize for questioning a move on a route I've never sampled at a crag I'll likely never visit. I was merely busting you balls a wee little bit, which is horribly juvenile and incredibly untactful. You're obviously well climbed and know damn well what a hard 5.8 move feels like. all apologies, dude Quote
backclipped Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 Well, then what is your favorite climb in NE? I spent a couple of years there climbing at Cannon, Ragged, Joe English, Crow Hill, and the Gunks. Hard to beat. I really enjoyed Morning Glory at Acadia. The Old Town, to that short 10c bolted pitch to Return to Forever is darn good as well. I haven't been up on Cannon yet, but the first thing I'm doing when I move home in the Spring is to jump on Moby Grape. Not to psyched on making the pilgrimage to the Gunks (another crag i"ve never visited)--too close to that city Quote
backclipped Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 I occasionally climb with Lets Roll. He's been dieing to watch me flail and wilt on his home crag....lord knows I've watched him enough at mine. Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 Will is a good guy and a good climber. He is familar with the ozone.... Quote
backclipped Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 Indeed. Will is one of the two guys I enjoy climbing with the most. Quote
JosephH Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 There you go, Moby Grape / Reppy's is a must do NE line though I'm not sure how you compare MG with LW, both at 5.8 - one is long and granite, the other short and basalt - both are classics and very high on the fun meter, however. Quote
letsroll Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 Glad everybody :kisss: and 8D the universe is all good now. I occasionally climb with Lets Roll. He's been dieing to watch me flail and wilt on his home crag....lord knows I've watched him enough at mine. Hay wait a sec. Quote
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