Beacon

[denalidave]

How come nobody mentioned this at the last BRCA meeting? I won't stand for it, I tell ya! Bacon Verrata

[stevetimetravlr]

Joseph, tell us its not true! I was checking out rockclimbing.com and saw this post regarding hooking.

Healyje is the one you really should be talking to about using hooks for free climbing pro, he uses them that way likely more than anyone on here.

Wow Joe, thats some ballsy shit!

 

[stevetimetravlr]

Ok, what the hell happened!!

[denalidave]

Ok, what the hell happened!! I did the SE corner this evening, topped out by headlamp. I was almost to the Jills Thrill top anchors at the Grassy Ledges I came upon a sea of moss. Yes, thats right. A fricking sea!!! It was about 2 feet deep and deeper in places and I had to wade thru it to get across a 20 foot section, no way to see the ground beneath. Just wallowing in moss, filled my shoes up, nasty. It looks like someone has been doing some extensive cleaning on that section. Anyone know what is going on? A new route perhaps? Someone been hard at work on something peeling back the carpet!!

Must be breaking ground on the new Via Ferrata! The HORROR! Can't say we were not warned...

[JosephH]

It was about 2 feet deep and deeper in places and I had to wade thru it to get across a 20 foot section, no way to see the ground beneath. Just wallowing in moss, filled my shoes up, nasty.

At the anchor? Or where from the anchor? Can't imagine there being anything above there worth the effort.

 

Joseph, tell us its not true! I was checking out rockclimbing.com and saw this post regarding hooking.

Healyje is the one you really should be talking to about using hooks for free climbing pro, he uses them that way likely more than anyone on here.

Hmm, missed this one both places. Yeah, rigged right, hooks are pretty handy, or at least better than nothing. Crack-N-ups in particular are nice to have if you watch ebay long enough to snag a set.

[stevetimetravlr]

Its a old crack variation, once the rain washs it a little I'll have to give it a twirl.

 

Edited November 14, 2010 by stevetimetravlr

[ivan]

Its a old crack variation, once the rain washs it a little I'll have to give it a twirl.

the olson topo map shows it as "cloud nine", ending up at those 2 wierd home made L-hangers near young warriors

[JosephH]

Its a old crack variation, once the rain washs it a little I'll have to give it a twirl.

Ah, the one going up to Tim's old funk-brackets. That would put the piles of moss on upper p3 and where you first come up to Grassy Ledges, is that correct? Doesn't strike me that there was that much moss on the wall there - possibly higher up I suppose (below the YW p4 ledge). I thought that line had been bolted and chopped. A perfect example of something I'd take the Crack-N-Ups and #1-3 Lowballs on.

[stevetimetravlr]

Yep, I believe you are correct Joe. Took out the Loweballs today but ending up not use them. If you have Lowballs Joe, you might want to try cinching your harness a little tighter, it seems to help me when I have that problem.

Lots of rocks coming down in the trees last few days, maybe due to the rain. There is a new big one on the trail with adjacent impact crater, and at least 6-7 smaller missiles came down in the woods last two days while we were there. On Friday a big one came whistling down the corner area.

[ivan]

holy sh it did you go out today steve? i sat inside and glowered out at the rain all day

[stevetimetravlr]

Yep, it was a great day for aid climbing. Not cold at all like yesterday, about 10 degrees warmer it seemed. Also not to wet, and west winds so it was windy as hell in the parking lot but peaceful and calm at the base.

[Plaidman]

I went to Bagby Hot Springs with my kids. Fun in the rain.

[YocumRidge]

holy sh it did you go out today steve? i sat inside and glowered out at the rain all day

I thought you were putting up a new tsar's line "Ivan the Terrible"?

[JosephH]

Steve, where EXACTLY are these impacts happening?

[stevetimetravlr]

You will see the one big rock in the trail since we left it there past past Cruising, and the crater a few feet away also in the trail. The smaller rocks that were coming down in the trees are over by Dods. Saturday a bunch came down and Sunday a few more. Jim said it may be people throwing rocks off the top or it could be the rain knocking them down, or combo of both.

[ivan]

what did you aid steve?

[stevetimetravlr]

we got on dis, Rick getting all tone loc on us.

[ivan]

free fir cum?

 

take your nails next time and try fresh squeeze next door - it's more exciting!

[JosephH]

Thanks, stuff has been coming down from up by Dods this year, but I don't suspect it's people. There is a band of bad rock up there under the free hanging part of the first rap off the trail using Andrew's anchor. Not sure what else it could be, though it's entirely possible there's another chute up there that needs to be cleaned out or terraced.

 

The piece over by Cruising could be a remnant from the big rock fall in March, hard to say, but thats about where stuff from higher on the rockfall scar would land. Bill and I were pretty thorough in our cleanup but anything is possible.

[ivan]

knew kevbone would be bummed if'n i went out to the 'wand on a cool n' frosty day, so here ya go

 

met dave n' kenny after they had a hooligan-night on the ledge in 20 degree wedder - shewed mercy on kenny and didnt' make him belay me on the p-line headwall, though i do need to sort that fucking siutation out - i jugged my line and at leas tgot some exercise while the boys packed up and rapped

 

after driving dave home, we ended up climbed jensens ridge p1 and dods p1 - far from ideal conditions, wicked cold, but calm airs - wanted to climb the corner but sheet ice atop p1 and the slab on p2, plus suicide verglass on cruising made it seem like that was a bit tard-tard

 

kenny coming up jensens - an antique route for sure w/ its ring pin n' vintage 1/4 inch button heads - wish that pitch was as stellar as the others

had some laughs at the notch n' even some sunbreaks - good views back at free for all anchors - while we were smelling the flowers i watched a gaint plate cut loose from the top of the arena of terror and crash down onto the trail

the man, the myth, the strait-to-video sensation

upper jensens was in prime shape, but w/ our late start and the fact that you can't rap once you commit, had to settle for enjoying the sunshine

strong light for six minutes made for sheenanigans on the terror wall

the river's up and the snow is down

zoom in and you can watch the elk herd doing their thing - never seen a gaggle of those fuckers in the open for so long, essentially the whole day

[denalidave]

Nice... Twas good to get back out, even if I did no real climbing...

[denalidave]

[ivan]

nice bedroom shot there dave

[video:youtube]

[LostCamKenny]

i remember waking up for about two minutes - long enough to see the sunrise. then my fart sack called me back in to where it was warm. damnit if ivan didn't call me an hour and a half later - i was actually comfortable and warm in there!

[stevetimetravlr]

Holy sheep shit it had to be cold up there!