ivan Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 the lord likes foolz n' drunkz - i should know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Maybe the lucky camper will post up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Them damn fixed anchors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncy Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Moral of the story: 1. Stick to your procedure. Without a middle mark, feed both ends down EVERY time. I eye balled it and THOUGHT I saw two nice piles below, one from each end. Each strand was lifted to verify I saw there was excess rope. Clearly I was wrong, still not sure how I mucked that up so bad. Lazy, and stupid. I know better, I stopped using knots in the ends a few years back, now I'm changing back from now on, just no reason to die due to a trivial amount of laziness. 2. Pay attention. We were planning on TR'ing that first pitch of Jill's to finish the day off, so I was staring at the pitch, not where I was rapping. Just dumb. I was overly sedate all day, and had been forcing myself to double check things because I was not happy with my general level of mental acumen. Clearly I still let my guard down despite being aware my brain had a case of the lazies. Just for the record, I was not on any sort of chemical, or "herb", just feeling sedate due to staying up late the night before. So yeah, I don't know how high I was above the bolts, I thought 8-10' above the bolts, but I was clearly not paying attention. I bounced on my arse, and have a very good memory of latching on a hold right above the notch, though I think it had little to do with my fall stopping in retrospect. I knew I was going for the big ride, saw a LOT of air below me and at least remember thinking I need to grab something solid or I'm toast. Just as surprising as NOT getting a final answer to my agnostic quest, was the lack of injury. My rear is swollen, and doing desk duty for 8 hours is torture right now, but otherwise I only scraped a couple knuckles, and have a minor scrape on one leg. I get more beat up on most approaches. I also did not get any significant adrenaline boost during the episode, which is just sort of odd. I kept telling myself I probably am hurt worse than I feel, and to not let the shock/adrenaline lull me into further bad decisions, but could never identify an adrenaline bout, which is just weird to me. So I get more adrenaline when i am running late to a meeting than nearly pancaking? WTF? I'm going to try to stay anonymous on this one, as I'd kind of prefer my wife to stay blissfully unaware... So yeah, if any of you figure out who I am, please keep it to yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 23, 2010 Author Share Posted August 23, 2010 You should be dead. Thank god you are not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncy Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Agreed. I should be dead. It probably would not have been much of a loss to the world. I doubt god gives a shit about me. I mostly would have regretted any hassles my grease spot would have made for access issues, and for the poor spatula crew who would have been tasked with scooping my brains off the rocks below. Those would have been an awful legacy to leave behind. I'm glad to be here just the same. Bad climber, no doughnut! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Them damn fixed anchors. good point, if there wasn't an anchor he would have topped out and it would have never happened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 You should be dead. Thank god you are not. WOW! And I thought STT was just pulling our legs to get us riled up. Glad you are OK, good reminder to us all about staying focused. As far as the agnostic quest, I'd be knowing God caught my arse, but that is just me. OK, flame away beatards... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 You should be dead. Thank god you are not. WOW! And I thought STT was just pulling our legs to get us riled up. Glad you are OK, good reminder to us all about staying focused. As far as the agnostic quest, I'd be knowing God caught my arse, but that is just me. OK, flame away beatards... (Sidenote - I HATE religion but do believe God exists) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 You weren't out at the Ozone last week, were you? Anyhow, maybe this, and the Ozone thread, should be unloaded on the masses. Only the choosen few get to see these threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp22 Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Holy $#!+ man! Amazed and glad that you're OK. and THANK YOU for having the balls to also post up on CC.com about your experience and let us know the details. Subjecting to the online court of public approval can't be easy - but hopefully folks can learn something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Them damn fixed anchors. good point, if there wasn't an anchor he would have topped out and it would have never happened. No doubt. Who originally put the SE rap anchors in? Maybe we should make a list of anchors that are candidates for removal. I would have no problem with it at all if folks decided a bunch of them should go away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Them damn fixed anchors. good point, if there wasn't an anchor he would have topped out and it would have never happened. No doubt. Who originally put the SE rap anchors in? Maybe we should make a list of anchors that are candidates for removal. I would have no problem with it at all if folks decided a bunch of them should go away. I've heared rumors that some anchor chopping may occur... Seems like a lot of work to me for something that is not really that important. I mean, if you don't like the fixed anchors, don't use em. Otherwise, let bye-gone's be bye-gone's. Being Beatarded is pretty funny... Then again, good point about topping out if the anchors were not there. Damned if you do, damned if you don't... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Congrats Bouncy on surviving. I'm only posting as one of my signature lines anytime something strange or rude occurs to myself or a friend is very similar to your sign off up there: "Bad dawg, no biscuit", and so I have gotten some calls asking if I'm OK. To my friends, it wasn't me..............well...this time anyway. Now you can get back to washing the brown in your underwear out.....WOW! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 As I said, I have no problem with a bunch of anchors going away, but anyone so inclined should be posting up a list of candidates and follow up with a list of what actually got removed. No one wants to be surprised by a missing anchor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 I bet burgers and beer taste a little better now, bouncy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 As I said, I have no problem with a bunch of anchors going away, but anyone so inclined should be posting up a list of candidates and follow up with a list of what actually got removed. No one wants to be surprised by a missing anchor. I agree Joe, but you know how the Beatards think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Bouncy, if you didn't get a adrenalin boost, I sure did. My hands were shaking after seeing that happen and I felt sick to my stomach. I couldn't believe it didn't even seem like you were injured at all. Glad to have you still on the planet. Like I said, someone was watching over you, I firmly believe that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Bouncy, if you didn't get a adrenalin boost, I sure did. My hands were shaking after seeing that happen and I felt sick to my stomach. I couldn't believe it didn't even seem like you were injured at all. Glad to have you still on the planet. Like I said, someone was watching over you, I firmly believe that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Them damn fixed anchors. good point, if there wasn't an anchor he would have topped out and it would have never happened. No doubt. Who originally put the SE rap anchors in? Maybe we should make a list of anchors that are candidates for removal. I would have no problem with it at all if folks decided a bunch of them should go away. how about the anchor on dod's jam by the tree below the crux, and the anchor in the middle of summerdaze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 There is no anchor on Dods jam by/below the tree currently. Something manky in the crack right above where you belay below the tree, old pin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 There is no anchor on Dods jam by/below the tree currently. Something manky in the crack right above where you belay below the tree, old pin? You mean there is no bolted anchor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 There was an anchor there originally that Jim thought should be restored, others thought differently so it was removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 well thanks for that, now how about the one on summerdaze which was retro'd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 There was an anchor there originally that Jim thought should be restored, others thought differently so it was removed. Define "originally"? Before 1995? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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