Beacon

[ivan]

if there were any conceivable way for me to climb out there past today I'd have already made a strong go at it.

 

You can start by quit sucking up to the man.

hey! that's a fine tool song! tool!

 

"hooker w/ a penis"

[denalidave]

it's the seasonal time for the reminder that the n face IS always open too - siege tactics, for the aid or 5.12 leader is a fantastic, and more importantly ALL weather, route (would someone please ask shane for permission for a mid-pitch anchor on headspace too, as even in a howling storm the first 1/2 of that pitch is totally dry, but past that point completly impossible, even on aid, in the usual conditions)- there are also a number of other routes up to the summit, especially the railroader's delight FA of the whole monolith, complete w/ 100+ year old via ferrata bars - there are certainly many other mysterious and lost to antiquity routes on this side, given the variety of ancient bolts and pins (and pop-bottles of every generation since the hoover-presidency)to be found when adventure-rapping from the summit, and not quite ALL of them coated in poision oak and festooned w/ house sized boulders!

So what's all being "revived" on the n side? I know Shane was out there a lot last year but I though he moved away? Seems like getting rid of the oak and all the major loose stuff is all that prevents some good route options over there.

[stevetimetravlr]

Is the north area that chossy broken area to the right of the trail as you come down from the summit trail almost to the parking lot? I have always thought that right as you hit the lot right above the water fountain is some super looking rock, but its closed? Why? Seems like its great rock and great location close in, with potential up above it also.

[ivan]

right of the sign at the water fountain is in-bounds, which includes plenty of solid rock, though much of it is blank or needing a week or more of dry conditions to be climbable

 

hadn't heard shane had moved away - does that mean the pitch above seige tactics hasn't been developed - its out of the shelter of the roof so i've never explored it in winter and have never climbed there in summer/fall unless it was totally shitty out - thought i saw some bolts getting put up there though (ST pitch 1 though doesnt have a single piece of fixed gear though)

 

i don't know that anything is being revived so much as there are several routes i know of that already go up the n side and evidence that many more once existed but have been reclaimed by time and moss and neglect that could be recovered by a motivated climber (though in winter it'll have to be mostly an aid project since its rarely not soaking then)

[JosephH]

if there were any conceivable way for me to climb out there past today I'd have already made a strong go at it.

 

You can start by quit sucking up to the man.

And you could quit sucking yourself off, dude - wake the fuck up! Peter Pan overdosed in the '90s, Wendy's been working 82nd for the past two decades, and the lost children graduated Green Hill School for Walla Walla state pen. You're married to a lawyer, maybe get a better grip on the facts than your dick before trying to piss into the legal shitstorm you keep wanting to start. But that's right, you running your mouth is way more important than early opens, especially since you don't really climb anymore anyway.

[JosephH]

Shane is in the South Bay area for a job. He still has the house in PDX, but I wouldn't count on him doing more than visiting for quite awhile.

 

He put in fixed pro applications for anchors and new routes that were approved for the Northside and then he, Tymun, and Dorian put them up.

[JosephH]

Is the north area that chossy broken area to the right of the trail as you come down from the summit trail almost to the parking lot? I have always thought that right as you hit the lot right above the water fountain is some super looking rock, but its closed? Why? Seems like its great rock and great location close in, with potential up above it also.

Left of the climbing line sign at the west end of the parking lot is closed because:

 

a) The area above the water fountain so people and cars aren't killed on the ground.

 

b) the area left above the fence for cultural and environmental reasons; cultural for the same reason the trail under the East Face roofs is closed; environmental for two endangered plant species up above the roofs (or on that tall face at the north end) - the Gorge Daisy and a variety of Saxifragaceae.

 

Again, if there were any way to open that tall, unbroken face on the north end of the East Face to climbing without fucking us with the Gorge Commission, DAHP and tribes I'd have already gone after it. In the original public comment period when Washington established state climbing regulations the comments from Gorge Commission and Warm Springs / Yakima tribes were not on our side claiming proposed climbing regs as applied in the Gorge violated the Scenic Act and tribal treaty rights - climbing was protected from them by the WSP staff in Olympia arguing on our behalf. But fuck their budget with legal fees and you'd be stupid to expect them to defend climbers again if we deliberately throw it open to involvement by the GC, DAHP, and tribes, and fuck the WSP and WDFG in the process.

[LostCamKenny]

found this on the n side while rapping last may... was about 100 feet from the top... pretty good proof that it had been developed at least to a slight degree at some point in the past. maybe wayne wallace could sound off about this - jim has always told me that he has lines over there...

 

 

Edited February 2, 2010 by LostCamKenny

[LostCamKenny]

He put in fixed pro applications

you mean the famous BRSPFPA???

[ivan]

naw, merely ellusive

[markd]

found this on the n side while rapping last may... was about 100 feet from the top... pretty good proof that it had been developed at least to a slight degree at some point in the past. maybe wayne wallace could sound off about this - jim has always told me that he has lines over there...

 

the north side has been climbed on for many years. in 2001 guy pinjuv and i almost climbed a "new" line to the summit but were stopped about a pitch short. beautiful up there.

[LostCamKenny]

the north side has been climbed on for many years.

 

... just not in many years...

[ivan]

found this on the n side while rapping last may... was about 100 feet from the top... pretty good proof that it had been developed at least to a slight degree at some point in the past. maybe wayne wallace could sound off about this - jim has always told me that he has lines over there...

 

the north side has been climbed on for many years. in 2001 guy pinjuv and i almost climbed a "new" line to the summit but were stopped about a pitch short. beautiful up there.

whereabouts? where did you start/end? did you see any old gear along the way and did you leave any? it is the beatard season for poking round up there afterall.

[markd]

we started on andrew's route that has two bolts down low and starts under the big obvious roof. from here we climbed and scrambled a couple more pitches of 'adventure' climbing and root pulling to a flat grassy ledge. next pitch is a sweet short 5.9ish flake crack up to another ledge. from here it's probably 200' or so of unprotected slab to the trail. guy climbed almost a full pitch but could not find pro so he down-climbed back to belay ledge. we were scared and bailed. there were two fixed ropes part way up the cliff that had core shots on them so we took them down when we bailed.

[justinp]

found this on the n side while rapping last may... was about 100 feet from the top... pretty good proof that it had been developed at least to a slight degree at some point in the past. maybe wayne wallace could sound off about this - jim has always told me that he has lines over there...

 

the north side has been climbed on for many years. in 2001 guy pinjuv and i almost climbed a "new" line to the summit but were stopped about a pitch short. beautiful up there.

whereabouts? where did you start/end? did you see any old gear along the way and did you leave any? it is the beatard season for poking round up there afterall.

 

Cool pic LCK. Like Steve I always thought that portion of the north side was closed. Its great to see some old gear up there. A reclamation sounds like a cool idea and I'd be willing to help explore. Or perhaps I will let someone else due all the leg work and reap the benefit when its done

 

[stevetimetravlr]

If we have a mild spring, this might be the time for doing a bunch of North side Beacon routes. Topo would be nice? or do you guys just find a old pin and start climbing?

[ivan]

there is no topo - it's pretty much indiana jones archealogical style clibing over there - if you rap in you can find some great trad cracks, but most of the shit at the base is so wet and slabby it needs bolts (yeah, let's merge a beacon AND a bolts conversation! )

 

any rate, if you do get possessed to go tinkering around on that side be fuck-sure to have someone on the ground w/ a radio so you don't kill any tourists, eh? in addition to being overgrown, the n side is VERY fractured.

[stevetimetravlr]

Sounds like a great place to take a hammer, a rack of pins, and a attitude. Permit, what permit? I don't need no stinking permit.

[LostCamKenny]

there is no topo - it's pretty much indiana jones archealogical style clibing over there - if you rap in you can find some great trad cracks, but most of the shit at the base is so wet and slabby it needs bolts (yeah, let's merge a beacon AND a bolts conversation! )

 

any rate, if you do get possessed to go tinkering around on that side be fuck-sure to have someone on the ground w/ a radio so you don't kill any tourists, eh? in addition to being overgrown, the n side is VERY fractured.

 

dr jones, DR JONES!!!!

[JosephH]

Did anyone run across an orange HB nut on the Corner this past weekend - would like to get it back if so. Would trade for another size HB nut, something else, or buy it back.

 

Just got back from doing the Corner and rapping Dastardly to replace the Windsurfer slings. If anyone knows who's yellow/black cordalette that was I have it if they want it back. Oh, and somewhere in the dark I lost an orange HB nut with or without a draw - have no idea how, but probably p3 somewhere.

[ivan]

i'm sure you'll find it (in july )

[pink]

i'm sure you'll find it (in july )

 

 

[JosephH]

Warm winter - it'll be closer to mid-June the way it's going...

[pink]

http://www.falconcam.med.ualberta.ca/cam3.html

[ivan]

crawling in oak today - seems like its only winter in the gorge when my skin turns to zombie-flesh