Beacon

[JosephH]

I would guess considerably before that from the look of it.

[JosephH]

well thanks for that, now how about the one on summerdaze which was retro'd

Wasn't retro'd, it was just moved off the tree - the anchor was there in that exact spot.

[kevbone]

You added an anchor at your feet in the rocks to get from grassy ledges over to the rap anchor on the flying dutchman. What about that?

[JosephH]

Are you talking the pin for the safety line or the anchor you can't see for Excalibur and Crankenstein? The pin / safety line to the old FD anchor was because I used FD as the haul point for all the work on the main South Face column anchors and maneuvering a 80 pound pack down and across to getting setup on the anchor or getting off of it wasn't safe otherwise - not really necessary now, but nice to have if you do the FD rap all the time. It also duplicated part of the fixed line setup the other Andrew from CO had setup up on that old anchor and which ran from there up and over to the fir tree on Grassy Ledges above Blownout.

 

The anchor you can't really see at your feet with the lines that go down to Exalibur and Crankenstein replaced the bulk of the long fixed rope setup he had. He had setup that fixed rope and retro-lowered the four anchors along there six feet so over the edge so he could TR / headpoint those lines and so he wouldn't have to top out onto a short, desperate, high-angle, gravelly slope. I don't know about you, but retro'ing those lines with gym anchors so they could be TR'd, headpointed, and not top out didn't seem ok and the WSP and BRSP were repeatedly complaining about his long fixed rope rig which was highly visible from the boat launch.

 

I removed the TR anchors, rebolted the orginal top out anchors which he'd removed, and cleaned up the top gravel/edge situation as best I could. The safety anchor and lines fixed down to Excalibur and Crankenstein anchors served to replace his far more visible fixed rope which allowed safe access to and from the tops of those lines and again allowed me to hump a work load down to restore the original anchors. And those route anchors also now sport a mesh bag on one bolt with a TR rig in it that will extend the anchor down to where Andrew had his TR anchors in case he showed back up to TR those lines or anyone else was so inclined.

 

I.E. that anchor, and the two lines from it down to the lower route anchors, and the TR rigs in the bags functionally replicate Andrew's whole setup in a far less intrusive way that is not visible from the boat launch (and with restored original anchors that allow you to top out the routes). Also, the little ledge at the top of Excalibur is the only place on Grassy Ledges you can stage and lower a litter over the edge clean and lower it to the ground in one shot in an emergency in the unlikely event there ever there was one. And hey, were you questioning Andrew when he retro'd all those those original anchors for TR / headpointing?

[kevbone]

Who is climbing this weekend? I will be at Beacon on Friday around noon or so. Really want to get on Rise up, Free for some, and Pipeline.

[ivan]

i might be there friday afternoon and should be there saturday - wild turkeys was on the list...

[kevbone]

Two days in a row. You must not have kids.

[stevetimetravlr]

I was there yesterday and took one of my employees up Young Warriors. Saw Joseph on the trail as we headed back up to meet Rick when he came off his solo. Joe said Stone Rodeo was pretty wet in places and didn't do any changes yet. YW had a big puddle at belay top of the second pitch but other then that wasn't to moist. Hoping to get out this weekend, but shooting for Leavenworth!

 

[ivan]

Two days in a row. You must not have kids.

nah, it's usually either/or - maybe friday, if not saturday - 'course, the in-laws are in town this weekend which enhances my ability to flee

[JosephH]

The trick at YW puddle is to drape the rope in long loops over each side of the outside corner of the ledge to the right of the puddle (as you are facing the anchor). I hope to be out friday afternoon as well and then saturday or sunday.

[denalidave]

I hope to be out Fri am and maybe Sun too.

[LostCamKenny]

The trick at YW puddle is to drape the rope in long loops over each side of the outside corner of the ledge to the right of the puddle (as you are facing the anchor).

 

the trick with the YW puddle is to have a few rocks sitting there so that the rope won't sit directly in the f-ing swimming pool. a careful climber won't knock them off and then it doesn't matter if there is water there. but someone always throws those rocks out of there - hmmmmm, who could that possibly be?

[billcoe]

Drill a drainage hole ya pussies.

[kevbone]

Bill....what a great idea.

[JosephH]

I've thought about that on several occasions and have the 12" x 1/2" bits to do it but I think they would just keep clogging up. I already feel like a janitor out there without having to carry a plunger or drain snake.

 

Calling for rain in pdx on sunday, but sunny in the Dalles so maybe it will be alright out there.

Edited September 23, 2010 by JosephH

[ivan]

Bill....what a great idea.

yeah, it might even be multi-functional

[billcoe]

 

LOL, at least the resin would be cleaned out periodically:-)

 

Possibly the way to do it would be to drill up, with a larger bit until it just breaks the surface where the water pools. Stopping so that there is a smaller hole poking through. Anything which does drop in will be carried away and flushed out next deluge. The small hole will ensure that any larger rock will only be laying on top, easy to brush off to clear the hole.

 

 

Or you could put a screen in it:-) When I pitched this, I figured it would be one of those "you're raping the earth" yellfests. Interesting. I come from a construction background while back....kind of crazy I guess.

 

Well, if any one does decide to do it, just do it quietly and skillfully and keep it off the net.

[kevbone]

12" x 1/2" bits

 

I have an 18 X 1/2 bit.

[JosephH]

There you go then, Kevin's your man. Like the two diameter idea.

[pink]

Drill a drainage hole ya pussies.

 

 

i've been saying this for years, but some mean old man wouldn't let me do it

[stevetimetravlr]

The trick at YW puddle is to drape the rope in long loops over each side of the outside corner of the ledge to the right of the puddle (as you are facing the anchor).

Thats exactly what I did with the rope, but you have to kind of tiptoe around so you don't get your shoes wet.

[stevetimetravlr]

So no one knows what that route is on the west face that has 5 bolts on it??? Looks stellar.

[JosephH]

Per the other thread. These are on the NW face (north of the trail), not the West face (south of the trail):

 

I think he's talking about one of Shane's new routes off the start of the trail. Check here:

 

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/washington/beacon_rock/106452015

[stevetimetravlr]

Has a topo for over there been drawn up or available? Looks like there is some pretty interesting stuff over there, but that huge section in the middle shady and mossy.

 

[JosephH]

No, you can just walk from the sidewalk down to Head Case on the wall opposite you as you head down the trail and all the routes are fairly obvious. Head Case in particular is really nice.