Beacon

[denalidave]

i usually don't climb yw w/ a rope more than a time or 2 a season anyhow so it makes no difference to me

just so we're clear, how many times this past season ( ) did you solo ALL of young warriors? I know i roped up with you for at least one climb on it...

How many time did he EVER solo ALL the pitches, bitzez?

[ivan]

i usually don't climb yw w/ a rope more than a time or 2 a season anyhow so it makes no difference to me

just so we're clear, how many times this past season ( ) did you solo ALL of young warriors? I know i roped up with you for at least one climb on it...

dude, i'm totally weak and not bragging - this past year i only did the upper pitch of yw solo, a handful of times - i've only done the lower pitches a couple times total, and the butthole pitch once and never again!

[kevbone]

but the only reason it was there was to keep the rope running correctly.

 

Run correctly? If anything that "directional" gives you a ton of crappy rope drag.

[LostCamKenny]

dude, i'm totally weak

whatever...

 

 

[LostCamKenny]

but the only reason it was there was to keep the rope running correctly.

 

Run correctly? If anything that "directional" gives you a ton of crappy rope drag.

I found that was the case when you do the first two pitches in one, but breaking them up i like that bolt clipped with a looong runner.

 

the traverse itself gives you a bunch of drag anyway - do you skip that first bolt and the pro in between, too?

Edited February 1, 2010 by LostCamKenny

[LostCamKenny]

kev, i'm guessing that you just hardmaned up and skipped that bolt in lieu of pro in the butthole?

Edited February 1, 2010 by LostCamKenny

[kevbone]

kev, i'm guessing that you just hardmaned up and skipped that bolt in lieu of pro in the butthole?

 

I have been know to skip all the bolts on pitch two. But....if you skip the bolt in question there is super bomber pro right before the mantel.

[stevetimetravlr]

if you clip it with a long runner and come off at the butthole, you'll be taking a longgggg plunge. except maybe if the crappy gear below the butthole holds, but I wouldn't put any odds on that happening. Has anyone ever fallen at that spot and had gear hold? As my feeling is that if you fall there with gear, you may bring the whole heap down on you. I always do it in two pitches myself, as the rope drag sucks and thats the last thing I myself want as Im pulling up to and over the butthole on those scary chossy flakes. I pretend like I'm a fairy, tip toeing up thru them...butterfly wings, magic wand, pink slippers, the whole shebang, works everytime.

[LostCamKenny]

if you skip the bolt in question there is super bomber pro right before the mantel.

 

think purple and green camalots both work pretty well there...

 

[LostCamKenny]

if you clip it with a long runner and come off at the butthole, you'll be taking a longgggg plunge. except maybe if the crappy gear below the butthole holds, but I wouldn't put any odds on that happening. Has anyone ever fallen at that spot and had gear hold? As my feeling is that if you fall there with gear, you may bring the whole heap down on you. I always do it in two pitches myself, as the rope drag sucks and thats the last thing I myself want as Im pulling up to and over the butthole on those scary chossy flakes. I pretend like I'm a fairy, tip toeing up thru them...butterfly wings, magic wand, pink slippers, the whole shebang, works everytime.

 

jim told me of a really good rock placement to the right of where everyone usually puts a bogus cam - or nut. jim said andrew found it and dug it out or something. i started looking for it and found it one day and it is the most bomber piece between the belay and the crack out of the butthole...

[denalidave]

I pretend like I'm a fairy, tip toeing up thru them...butterfly wings, magic wand, pink slippers, the whole shebang, works everytime.

Sthuper. sickie I felt more like a beached whale, flopping vertically up it the other day.

[denalidave]

[ivan]

hey, it's february 1 - isn't it about time for a full on hysterical fit?

[ivan]

damn dave, beat me by a whole 8 minutes!

[ivan]

so...anyhow for the masses, who are some egg-headed bird types that might be located to validate a claim that closing hte ENTIRE south side of the rock is unnecessary for the bird's well-being? young warriors for example is essentially entirely on the east side of the rock and can't even see big ledge!

[ivan]

at smith, for another example, you can still climb 1 pitch climbs on the the picnic lucnh wall during their closure.

[pink]

hey, i got a second degree trespassing charge once ....

[ivan]

i think i can top that

 

almost got the trespassing charge once though after climbing the first 30 feet of the capitol building in d.c.!

[stevetimetravlr]

I agree, closing of Young Warriors is a little far fetched to protect nesting birds on the other side of Beacon Rock. Not sure why they can't open it. As long as everyone stays on the east side of the SE corner route, it doesn't seem like it would be much of a problem. I bet Joe H. would know why they don't open it?

[kevbone]

Closing YW yet keeping the trail to the top open is very far fetched.

[JosephH]

The Peregrines use the Tree Ledge and SE Corner Ramp extensively for both hunting and fledging. And given the East Face is where they'd most likely move the eyrie if they were going to move it, I wouldn't want activity over there prior to laying eggs (first week of April). Over the last three years they have been showing a strong affinity for the East Face. The issue for them over there is the Ravens. In the years they nest at Beacon it's on the East Face which they dominate. They chased the Redtails out of their nest and over to the trees in front of Hamilton three years ago never to return.

[LostCamKenny]

here it comes...

[JosephH]

Closing YW yet keeping the trail to the top open is very far fetched.

There is nothing about the closure that isn't far-fetched to you. Look, I climb out there a hell of a lot more than you do these days and believe me, if there were any conceivable way for me to climb out there past today I'd have already made a strong go at it. As it is I'm not willing to risk early opens for ideas that I know aren't going to pan out and will just antagonize folks in the process.

 

To some extent these posts are like watching PDX drivers when the rain starts every year. I know it's a bummer for everyone - me included (if not me especially, because I'm just that damn 'special').

[ivan]

it's the seasonal time for the reminder that the n face IS always open too - siege tactics, for the aid or 5.12 leader is a fantastic, and more importantly ALL weather, route (would someone please ask shane for permission for a mid-pitch anchor on headspace too, as even in a howling storm the first 1/2 of that pitch is totally dry, but past that point completly impossible, even on aid, in the usual conditions)- there are also a number of other routes up to the summit, especially the railroader's delight FA of the whole monolith, complete w/ 100+ year old via ferrata bars - there are certainly many other mysterious and lost to antiquity routes on this side, given the variety of ancient bolts and pins (and pop-bottles of every generation since the hoover-presidency)to be found when adventure-rapping from the summit, and not quite ALL of them coated in poision oak and festooned w/ house sized boulders!

[kevbone]

if there were any conceivable way for me to climb out there past today I'd have already made a strong go at it.

 

You can start by quit sucking up to the man.