backclipped Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 (edited) I looked at, but did not climb, the opening moves of Nine Gallon Buckets. All is well and the bottom is still 5.9. I know a few of you over on the soggy side were losing sleep about the alleged alteration to one of Central Oregon's most celebrated uber classic clip ups...I think in a few more Detours the ground should wear sufficiently enough away to place the starting jugs a few moves out of reach. I predict it will go at 5.11- when this happens. Edited October 4, 2009 by backclipped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Whew, that's lucky... Great bolt climbs are hard to find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Whew, that's lucky... Great bolt climbs are hard to find  What makes for a "great bolt climb"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Whew, that's lucky... Great bolt climbs are hard to find  What makes for a "great bolt climb"? One that has bolts on it, lots of them. Even better if it goes up a rock face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Forget stick clips I see this as the new smith equipment. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Forget stick clips I see this as the new smith equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Whew, that's lucky... Great bolt climbs are hard to find  What makes for a "great bolt climb"?  Oh i dunno bill... is ryhthm method one? Could you tell us all the story of that one???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Uber-Classic? Â Maybe if someone painted the holds cool colors it would be classic, gym-rat style. Or maybe perma-chain draws? Â Â JL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Oh i dunno bill... is ryhthm method one? Could you tell us all the story of that one???? Â Tell it again?! Follow along and lets do the Homey the Clown song first. LOL! Â Ok, pull up a chair little childrens and Homeys got a story---> [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Oh i dunno bill... is ryhthm method one? Could you tell us all the story of that one???? Â Tell it again?! Follow along and lets do the Homey the Clown song first. LOL! Â Ok, pull up a chair little childrens and Homeys got a story---> [video:youtube] Homey don't play dat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 exactly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backclipped Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 Uber-Classic? Maybe if someone painted the holds cool colors it would be classic, gym-rat style. Or maybe perma-chain draws?   JL  I'm right with ya, Jlag. I'm currently working with a Smith Rock Detour coordinator to up-the-uber on this most spectacular and time honored climb. We're attempting a paint by numbers activity for next years attendees. Every participant will be issued a paint roller and a numbered canister containing a "mystery" color. Each canister will be matched with a corresponding cube. Prior to the event a handful of us (the paint-by-number squad) will spend a few hours "griding out" the wall. The result should yield a kaleidoscope of brilliance which will help to offset any climbing anxiety for those stepping from the gym to the great outdoors. If this activity proves successful, we're hoping to approach the park service about doing the same thing to the adjacent routes--think about it, how cool would magic light be if we did a mosaic of Jimmy Hendrix's face on it? I know, man....totally bitchin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Â I'm right with ya, Jlag. I'm currently working with a Smith Rock Detour coordinator to up-the-uber on this most spectacular and time honored climb. We're attempting a paint by numbers activity for next years attendees. Every participant will be issued a paint roller and a numbered canister containing a "mystery" color. Each canister will be matched with a corresponding cube. Prior to the event a handful of us (the paint-by-number squad) will spend a few hours "griding out" the wall. The result should yield a kaleidoscope of brilliance which will help to offset any climbing anxiety for those stepping from the gym to the great outdoors. If this activity proves successful, we're hoping to approach the park service about doing the same thing to the adjacent routes--think about it, how cool would magic light be if we did a mosaic of Jimmy Hendrix's face on it? I know, man....totally bitchin' Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkporwit Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 [video:youtube]WZ7EiCs77xw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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