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markwebster

do it yourself resole

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Can anyone provide any links to a webpage or video that explains do-it-yourself rockshoe resole?

 

I've heard you blow the first 3 tries, and I'm willing to pay that price on some old beaters. But I need detailed explanations. Surely someone has put it online?

 

 

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i don't think there's anything like an instructional video online for that.

honestly, the only people that are proficient enough to make a how-to video are the resolers that do it frequently, and would rather have you pay them to do it.

 

but just get a kit and follow the instructions, and you'll do a good enough job. It's not difficult if you just want to get a functional resole - but it would certainly take more experience to be able to make it "pretty".

 

also, years ago there was a pretty detailed post w/ instructions & tips on RC.com (go search...I'm too lazy to find it right now)

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here is the info on rockclimbing.com, thanks for the tip. I'm still undecided on what to do. If I was more organized I'd simply send them off, but it seems I procrastinate and end up just buying new ones...which is stupid. This could be a nice rainy winter day project...and if I get good at it, I'll post a good tutorial for the do it your selfers out there.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?start=0&t=70986&topic_view=flat

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I've had reasonable results from the very first pair I tried just by following the directions provided with a 5.10 resole kit. Over the past 18 years, I've probably self-resoled a half-dozen pairs. If your shoes aren't completely dissolving off your feet, but are just worn at the toe, a half-sole is a relatively simple proposition. The great thing is, the most likely version of "failure" is your resole delaminates, in which case, you simply peel 'em apart, clean the surfaces, and reglue 'em. big deal... more recently, I've taken to plugging a toe of rock-shoe rubber into my rigid-soled alpine boots because it seems like that's about the only point that wears (from walking approaches), and replacing the entire sole seems a ridiculous expense when 90% of the sole is hardly worn... so far, so good...

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I ordered the kit. From my research online it appears that the biggest problem is finding a way to apply pressure during the curing process. I love a challenge though and already have some ideas for carving a jig out of wood to put in my vice. Should be fun.

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one time-honored dirtbag method is to place the newly resoled shoes under the tires of whatever you drive, on a flat surface, overnight. I have actually achieved acceptable results with this method... I don't use this practice with my alpine boots, though -- if you beat the @$* out of the bond when you first pair the surfaces, it seems to cure ok without continuing pressure - in fact prior to my diy days, I actually watched a couple of pro resole jobs, in which the cobblers simply glued the soles on, trimmed and sanded the edges, beat the @#$* out of the soles with a hammer, then handed me my shoes saying they were ready for use! Those jobs held up fine, but I still let my diy resole jobs cure overnight.

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for me, the method that workd best was make a back cut at the middle of the arch at about 45 degrees, then, gradually warm the shoe with a propane torch and CAREFULLY roll the front sole off with needle nose pliars and very quick touches with the torch. You have to be careful so as not to undo the rand to midsole glue bond.

 

The next step was to sand clean, works better than a chemical stripper the midsole and exposed rands and the new rubber. I wore latex gloves to keep finger oils off the bonding surfaces.

 

The next step, i used a paint brush to apply the thinnest film of barge cement that i could to both surfaces.

 

Then, i put them in the freezer for twenty minutes to chill the glue.

 

Line up the mating surfaces, press from the center of the shoe and work outwards in a circular fashion.

 

Rechill the shoes for twenty minutes.

 

Then work around the perimeter with a rubber mallot hammering it down.

 

Then rechill overnight. Carefully grind the 45 cut seam to flush in the middle of the sole, taking care not to get the shoe hot and screw up the glue.

 

Trim with a carpet night, then use rough grit sandpaper glued around a dowel to bring the edges to a nice tight fit with the rands.

 

DONE...

 

 

 

OR YOU COULD JUST SEND THEM TO RAMUTA and get back an essentially brand new pair of shoes...

Done.

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I have always enjoyed carpet cleaning.

 

Resoling, in my opinion, should be done by a professional. It is a small cost compared to other resources needed for climbing and you will appreciate it on your next edging project. Ramuta is great and so is the Rubber Room in Bishop CA.

 

It is great to have multiple pairs while you wait. I pride myself in having more pairs of rock shoes than my wife has high heels. Resole on and good climbing.

 

And then there is always the Jimmy Dunn barefoot option. But it is nice to be able to do a lot of pullups with that option.

 

Edited by matt_warfield

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My $.02, Support your local resoler. They're the experts and who knows how much longer they will be around. It's pretty tough to resole a modern shoe unless you have the skills and the right equipment.

 

The last pair I ever tried to resole were my 5.10 Altia's (original model). This shoe doesn't look much different than an EB! The resole was okay, but what a joke compared to my Scarpa slippers that I just had resoled at Cascade Cobbler. I have to say they look like brand new shoes, factory quality!

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