Question on classes in climbing water fall ice

[ChrisHXX]

I have been climbing rock, snow and glacier ice for twenty plus years, but have very little water fall ice climbing experance. Last year, Wayne drug me up a w2+ ice climb and I am sure he felt more like a guide than having a partner, so I need to correct this problem. So here is the question, this winter I am planning on paying a guide service to teach me, I am looking for the most climbing for the buck, someone that will push me and I only want or can afford two or three days of paying a guide. Better if it's a class with a few people less money per day. I am thinking Ouray would be the location, but I have never been there so somewhere else might be better. Anyway, I am just looking for recommendations so I don't spend money on some crap class. Thanks

[giza]

You don't have to go all the way to Ouray for an ice course dude. American Alpine Institute can provide instruction, either in a group or on an individual basis.

[ChrisHXX]

Understand, that AAI gives the course but Pacific Northwest Ice is spotty at best, and I need to plan out the time off.

[genepires]

AAI ice course is a summer course. They may have some classes in ouray though.

 

A better bet may be to go to canmore and get a guide there. That way you could personalize it without the basic stuff that you obviously have mastery of. Seems like a class would be full of stuff you already know and may be a partial waste of time.

[genepires]

you could also just go to ouray with some buddies, a book on ice climbing and have a great time doing lots of top roping. figure it out by experimentation.

[indigosage]

Ouray is a great place to both learn and play. You could try going to the Ice Festival. You can sign up for a bunch of different clinics and they are pretty inexpensive. You could also try and hook up with one of the guide services - San Juan Mountain Guides, run by Clint Cook, is excellent. Another guide, Matt Wade, recently started his own company and I can say that he is a great guide as well and seems to have a good crew of people. They do 2-day beginner programs, and 3-day intermediate programs that are reasonably priced. Even with a lot of alpine experience, taking a structured class in ice climbing is well worth the time.

http://www.ourayclimbing.com/ San Juan Mountain Guides (Clint's co.)

http://www.peakmountainguides.com/iceclimbing.html Peak Mtn. Adventures (Matt's co.)

 

Have fun!

[Tokogirl]

May want to check out:

http://www.mountainguides.com/ouray.shtml, Jeff Ward is very good with lots of experience

or http://mountainschool.com/ouray_ice_climbing.html

with John and Olivia.

 

Edited September 20, 2009 by Tokogirl

[Farrgo]

You can definately teach yourself with a book and a good toproping venue. A guide will really streamline the process. I've watched friends who anted up some money for a guide when they started, quickly achieve a level that took me a couple seasons to reach by myself.

[archenemy]

Years ago I took a mini "class" in Hylite that was hosted by Northern Lights (http://www.northernlightstrading.com/).

 

I swear I remember it being free, but don't quote me on that. I do remember it being really fun and I felt able to pretty much carry on from there.

 

Good luck!

[John Frieh]

Years ago I took a mini "class" in Hylite that was hosted by Northern Lights (http://www.northernlightstrading.com/)

 

Same thing but years later: http://www.montanaalpineguides.com/bozemanicefestival/

 

See you there

[t_rutl]

i spent time with Clint in Ouray and Matt out this way...was in the same boat as you...no experience on the ice and needed a crash course so i could get to climbing...San Juan has great programs in CO...you get your money's worth...i think over three days we spent 20 hours geared up...having it been my first real time out i was wasted by the end of my time with them but came away with more than i bargained for...that and there are so many people climbing you can hook up with anybody for some TR practice after...and Telluride is not to far away...hotels offer deals for ice park members...park is withing walking distance from most place...countless backcountry opportunities within a short drive

 

i ante'd up the dough and felt it was well worth it...having started late in the game...but that's the price you pay for missing out for all the years prior!!

[thelawgoddess]

I have been climbing rock, snow and glacier ice for twenty plus years, but have very little water fall ice climbing experance. Last year, Wayne drug me up a w2+ ice climb and I am sure he felt more like a guide than having a partner, so I need to correct this problem.

 

You don't *have* to go to Ouray, but there isn't anywhere else in the world like it. You will get quantity and quality there -- and you can climb as much as you can handle, with very little time "wasted" on approaches (even for the out-of-park climbing).

 

Just don't be discouraged when you come back and go climbing with Wayne again and you still feel like he's the guide.

[kenno]

Echoing above, get into one of the climbing clinics at the Ice Festival. I took my partner in 2008. The experience gained will keep you wanting more and worth the dues.

[DonnieK]

There other options besides Ouray, especially if you are going the guided route. Try guides in the Canadian Rockies - Yamnuska comes to mind. I'm not a big fan of Ouray, so I'll always recommend going somewhere else.....personal preference I guess....but it'd be hard to beat the C. Rockies for setting and experience.

[Dane]

Same suggestion as Donnie...check your PM.

[ChrisHXX]

Thanks everybody!!! I just got back from climbing in Leavenworth, I just love climbing Outerspace in the fall! So I just got a chance to read everyones suggestions, and I think, weather dependent obviously, I will start this winter out by heading to Hylite for a guide and the Ice festive, then see how funds are and head to Ouray, to practice and drink copious amounts of beer with the wife.

[climbingcoastie]

Highly recommend going to an ice fest. For the price you can't beat the clinics. Plus you can meet people from all over looking to get out and climb.

 

Went to Ouray last year and going back again this year. If you are on the fence about a clinic being to hard my recommendation is to take it. I took a couple last year that I felt I could have spent my time better in a more advanced clinic. Don't get me wrong you will learn a lot even in the basic clinics but even the more advanced ones review the basics.

 

Get your ice park membership soon because you get a discount and clinics open up Nov 6th. The good ones fill fast. Ouray Clinics

 

If you decide to go to Ouray between Jan 5th and the 11th let me know and maybe we could climb together.

 

Pat

[Jason_Martin]

The American Alpine Institute runs courses in Ouray with Dawn Glanc, the winner of last year's ice festival in the women's division. To read about all of our ice options, check out:

 

Ice Courses

 

Going to an ice festival is a good way to get a little experience for a little money. But climbing festivals tend to be high guide to climber ratio events. You'll get a lot more bang for your buck if you hire a guide for a few days.

 

Jason

[ClintCook]

Wow, Didn't realize this was the place for self promotion!

 

First my honest opinion. Ouray is a fantastic place to learn to climb water ice, but its more about the instructor than the area. There are plenty of guides who come to Ouray each winter to guide for non-local companies who can barely hack their way up WI4. Do you research.

 

Now, my shameless plug. Come to Ouray! We're really friendly!

San Juan Mountain Guides is the country's finest ice climbing school. plain and simple. Compare our rates (which include gear), our instructors, and our student testimonials. There is a reason I guide over 100 days of water ice around the globe every year. No other guide comes close.

 

Food for thought.

 

Honestly submitted,

Clint Cook

SJMG Director

IFMGA Mountain Guide

[Jason_Martin]

While AAI is not a local company, our lead guide in Ouray is a local. And of course, once again, Dawn did win the ice festival competition. She is very very good...

 

Jason

Edited October 28, 2009 by Jason_Martin