pink Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 i heard if u throw in a bolt u can rename the route.... how about retro-able richard??? Quote
ivan Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 if you use uranium hangers it can be retroly-radioactive richard Quote
JosephH Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 How about skip the bolt and just rename it to 'You and Richard Are Dying', should solve any misconceptions about the route. Quote
pink Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 i heard there is this MONDO flake that is gonna peel the next time someone nails it.... lets call it "swine flu" being there is a possibility you will make it to the anchor. i've never seen anyone attempt that route but then again i never spent much time on the trail when i was climbing at that tird pile by the river. Quote
pink Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 drill, baby, drill! Â Â at least try to get a pin in so we can call it something catchy like "nailin palin"... Quote
kevbone Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 How about skip the bolt and just rename it to 'You and Richard Are Dying', should solve any misconceptions about the route. Â Â J....who has the credit for the FA in the olson guide for RR? Quote
pink Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 How about skip the bolt and just rename it to 'You and Richard Are Dying', should solve any misconceptions about the route. Â Â J....who has the credit for the FA in the olson guide for RR? Â silly rabbit... guidebooks are for kids... Quote
pink Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 guidebooks.... theirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreat!!!!!!!!! Quote
billcoe Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 J....who has the credit for the FA in the olson guide for RR?  Kevin, Tim Olsen posts as OLS and indicates that was his route on this very thread. I guess you can ask JH what OLS posted or what he wrote in the guidebook, but you could just as easily ask him. Just a reminder that it's acceptable to read others posts first, before you post since he has 2 posts before you asked the question. LOL  Iv & Farr... since Reasonable Richard is definitely "un-reasonable" why not jus add a bit more fixed protection. I was climbing well above the .9 level at the time so it got under-fixed. Perhaps that will bring yur hordes to the routes in question above thar. So there you go. He says a bolt is fine with him. PS, here's some pics I took of broken ankle Chris styling smooth on the slab to get to Blood Sweat and Smears about a week ago while all you slackers where home sleeping or sumptiin.        Quote
ivan Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 great pics bill - so is that local access he's on or richard? i usually end up doing the dark dihedral right of him in the pic as the best pro leads you thataways and there is a pin just out of the pic on the lower right - i was assuming that was richard, but maybe it's just not in the book? Â mike led that the day after chris btw and removed all those offensive plants Quote
Farrgo Posted September 21, 2009 Author Posted September 21, 2009 I'm pretty sure he is on RR. At least that's how everyone climbs. The dark dihedral to the right does look much more protectable. Quote
billcoe Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 I think the dark dihedral Nate mentions may be Local Access. Anyone confirm? 5.10a better pro. Quote
powderhound Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 I would like to climb at Beacon on Wednesday. Anyone want to rope up....I just lost my rope and rack in a fire....but can belay safe and lead up through 5.11 trad. send me a PM. Quote
ols Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 Chris is leading RR for certain in the pics. Perhaps a mere name change will work ...like UN-reasonable richard. Great to see that someone still leads up RR once in a while. Â Quote
JosephH Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 Bryan, I have a spare rope and rack you're welcome to borrow... Â Â Quote
JosephH Posted September 22, 2009 Posted September 22, 2009 I go up it fairly regularly, it's decent line where you have to engage your brain. And if you can't get up it comfortably you don't belong on the routes above that it provides access to. My only problem with it is the stars as a standalone route. Â The larger dihedral is Local Acces. Bill, I don't know about the 'better pro' part from what I recall of it. I seem to recall not caring much for the pro on it and I'm generally pretty comfortable with sketch pro. Quote
Farrgo Posted September 23, 2009 Author Posted September 23, 2009 I went back and took a look. The dihedral immediately right which looks to have better pro is Black Maria 9+. Locals is one more dihedral right. Quote
JosephH Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 That can't be right as the next dihedral to the right is the Third Rail which tops out by traversing over the top of the larger dihedral in the picture to the anchor. Quote
billcoe Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 Thanks for looking Nate. Maybe The Third Rail is 2 columns over Joesph? Quote
billcoe Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 Opps, chance for a picture, maybe I should replace my words above? Â After the FA we went back for a 2nd lap although it's not clear why. Joseph on the first 2nd ascent of the The Third Rail. JH had quite a good lead on it. Very solid in 100 degree heat. I think for the FA, JH had his shirt off, and I could almost see the sweat dripping off as he got to the crux up there. Ujahn Davisson picture. Â Hey, do we have a grass growing enterprise happening here or what? Â I had Ujahn take a pic of the 1st piece of pro, like to share that too:-) From the 2nd ascent, I didn't get any pics of the 1st, too busy sweating. _____________________________________________________________ Â Hey Nate: don't know why, but this is a damn good thread....so far:-) Â Fully knowing that this thread will degenerate into the shit storm from which all Beacon threads are born... Â Ha ha ! There is still time I suppose! Quote
JosephH Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 I understood the lines to be like this. But then the Third Rail came about because I didn't understand the lines and Jim couldn't rememeber them either. Â Quote
Farrgo Posted September 23, 2009 Author Posted September 23, 2009 I'll definately yield knowledge of Beacon to you Joseph. I was comparing the lines to Tim's newest Beacon topo which shows Black Maria as the line over. Whatever it is, I think trying the dihedral to the right via the column proper is the way to go. Quote
billcoe Posted September 23, 2009 Posted September 23, 2009 I'll definately yield knowledge of Beacon to you Joseph. I was comparing the lines to Tim's newest Beacon topo which shows Black Maria as the line over. Whatever it is, I think trying the dihedral to the right via the column proper is the way to go. Â I hope that your aren't yielding just cause folks get old! Look at me, I don't know shit. Â Â Gratuitous last week from the boat ramp pic. Quote
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