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Mountaineering Boots?


denalidave

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So it's time to step up and get a new pair of all around mountaineering boots. I don't need anything for specialized climbing as I don't do much (or any) ice or don't plan on any major expeditions. I just need some comfortable, crampon compatible boots for stuff like Mt Hood and the like. Since they are pretty spendy, I was hoping for some advice. BTW, I have wide feet. I love LaSportiva for rock shoes but I hear their boots don't fit wide feet well, is this true?

 

Thanks!

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Scarpa Charmoz or Triolet :tup:

 

Charmoz great 3 season (Scarpa's version of the Trango)...Triolet is a bit beefier...I have narrowish feet...took 2 socks to fit right but loved the boot...warm weather killed my feet so changed to Sportivas...my roomie bought the Triolets off me and loves them...he has quite wide feet

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I liked the Charmoz, they just aren't all that durable- I blew them out in a season and a half. I like the Triolets and have yet to make a dent in them after 2 seasons.

 

I also bought a pair of Garmont Vetta lights this year and I love them- super lightweight, but definitely not super waterproof. You might also try the Garmont Towers- probably more hat you are looking for.

 

I have wide flat feet and all of them have fit me well.

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The cardinal rule, of course. is to try the boot out before buying. I had bought the Scarpas on E-bay, and suffered.

Absolutely!

 

I have had good luck with Asolo hiking boots, as far as really good fit. Any word on their mountaineering boots?

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For wide feet and general 3-season mountaineering in the Cascades I would highly recommend the Scarpa Triolets. They are the same last as the Charmoz (direct competitor to the Sportiva Trango S) but way more durable. The Summits and Freney XTs are also good boots but overkill if you don't plan on climbing anything that gets towards vertical.

 

Regarding fit, my first boots were a pair of the original Freneys which fit fairly narrow and destroyed my heals but climbed like a dream. However I have found that in the current generation of Scarpa mountaineering boots (Freneys included) they fit substantially wider than most Sportivas. For my size 9 E-width feet Nepals fit me almost perfectly, Scarpas are almost too wide for me unless I wear my thickest socks or drop down half a size, Kayland Apex Rocks are decent (the old Super Ices were painfully narrow and low volume), Sportiva Trangos are bearable and Garmont Towers are excruciatingly narrow in the toes but actually too wide in the heel, the same way an unmolded Mega-Ride fits me.

 

As far as the Asolos go, every single pair I've tried on (never worn any in the field) have felt great as far as the volume and shape of the last but as soon as I lace them up they pinch horribly on the front of my ankle - bad enough that I couldn't wear them for more than 10 minutes or so around the store.

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I have a pair of Asolo Titans which I really liked. I've replaced them with the Scarpa Charmoz. The fit for both are similar to me. Both of these boots are uninsulated and fit semi-automatic crampons (clip in back). La Sportivas don't work for me as they are more crowded in the toe box.

 

But, when buying my next pair of boots, I'll get an all leather boot. Light weight is very seductive, but the synthetic fabric on both these boots just hasn't very durable when scrambling up sharp scree.

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Other than general temperature recommendations you really do just need to try some boots on to see what fits your foot as each model will be different. Some advice that I can add that would be helpful would be this check out Second Ascent if you are in the Seattle area as they have a decent selection of used boot (some in really good shape). I got a pair of Sportiva Makalus which are all leather, which would be ideal for the climbing you describe,for only $70 in near new condition. For the Portland area check out e-omc.com, Oregon Mountain Community is out on Sandy and they have a kiosk in the store that you can use to get the online prices, which are pretty good in their screaming deals section, and then try them on before you buy.

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