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B.S.'er

You can never have to many partners......

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Hey, there were no aluminum pole-with-plastic biner-holder devices when the Doctor first started cragging. It was all lumber and tape back then, just like Reinhold Messner did it on Annapurna.

 

A good lesson, however, is to use a twig to prop the gate of the top biner open instead of tape, in case when you pull the stick loose it doesn't get all the tape and leaves the biner taped open. Had a friend pull this one; got up to the stick-clipped first bolt, was climbing past it, unhooked the taped-open draw from the bolt, and proceeded to go ass over tincups to the dirt. He got out with a sprained ankle. Had that happened on Vomit Launch, he would have wound up in the Crooked.

 

[ 10-07-2002, 04:08 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

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I have seen snaffles trained to clip bolts. All you have to do is promise not to turn them into pelts and jerky, and they will do almost anything. Also, as they are naturally gifted climbers, they are not limited to just the first bolt.

 

Ironically, snaffles just don't like sportos. This explains why sightings of bolt clipping snaffles are so rare, and why there are no snaffles at Smith Rock.

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There are a couple of chubby marmots (is there any other kind?) up in Cocaine Gully, but they just sit back on the rocks and heckle you like those two old guys in the balcony on the Muppet Show as you plummet from the crux of Crack Babies for the nth time in a row.

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Hey RobBob,

 

Looks like you registered in September, so where the hell do you get off complaining? Shut your trap newbie. [big Grin] Or are you just an old school lurker who has comeout of the closet?

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