Stopgo Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Thinking of giving aid climbing a rip and would like to get opinions on necessary gear and recommended makes/models. After doing a bit of research, this is what I've compiled. FWIW, I've got a couple sets of nuts and cams. Aiders- Yates Big Wall Ladders Jumars- Petzl Cam hooks- Moses 2x each narrow and wide HB Brass Offsets Mini Traxion- wanting to do some solo aid (is 1 enough?) and for hauling GriGri Daisies- BD BD Fifi Hook some BD ovals Is a hammer necessary? Funkness device? I'm wanting to keep costs down, and am envisioning doing some pretty basic one pitch harder free routes as my intro to aid climbing (think Index). Eventually bigger routes may call, but wanting to take it slow at this point. Anything I'm missing, anything I don't need, any beginner aid tips in general? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 no need for hammer/funkess assumign you're doing clean routes ladders or etriers, no real difference - 2 ladders are cheaper than 4 etriers though hooks in general, there's no huge diffference - i'd get them last - you'll probably be starting on easy routes anyhow hb brass offsets rawk 1 traxion is good for hauling, won't need it for anythign else grigri or something similair is plum necessary for solo-climbing and for jugging (learn the the 1 jug/1 grigri technique!) any species of daisy is kewl, but big, beefy buckled adjustable daises are best fifi hook - i never climb anything w/o one beginner tip: use 2 pair of etriers and prepare to be confused most of the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Looks like you have enough gear to get started. A BD Cliffhanger will soon be useful, depending on route. One important note: Don't use a toothed rope grab like a mini-traxion to support your body weight in a fall. They have been known to strip the sheath and cut the core. They are used with backup for top rope soloing (but don't let any slack develop in the system), but use a Grigri or similar device (or clove hitches) for solo aid. Chris McNamara of Supertopo fame is putting together a how-to book on aid climbing. Here are some of the chapters: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=692927 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 The gri-gri is key for aid climbing. Put any old hammer in the pack. You will inevitably place a nut and it will get fixed. A carefully placed nut tool and a few taps of the hammer will keep your gear "yours". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kletterhund Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Slightly heavier and spendier but I like the Pro Traxion... Definitely two sets of ladders... Kneepads... Sometimes - sometimes not - good for learning. Fingerless Gloves (Metolious...) Sometimes - sometimes not - good for learning. Lowe Balls - First three sizes... BD Wiregate Ovals are nice... Wear shades if your ever start swingin' a hammer... Going to get a lot of ideas off this site I would imagine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 and go do this route once you get up to speed. It's fun and easy (you can do it as easy as 5.7 A2). It could probably go clean too with cam hooks. http://www.alpinedave.com/darrington/Voodoo/Voodoo_Wall.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 don't forget your portable ghetto blaster eh? makes solo-aiding in particuliar a world more entertaining and its not impolite to leave w/ your belayer if you think you'll be trying his patience on a 3 hour pitch mine's the green bitch on left, getting a workout on the chimney pitch of town crier - 9.99$ at best buy beyotch! 2 AA batteries last all day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 forget the Stone-age ladder or step style aiders, get the sliding adjustable ones. Light years better. They are lighter, easier to use, faster, and climb higher on each placement. So less gear placements on each pitch. forget the pitons and hammer, there's so much clean aid to do first. solo aid with a clove hitch and back up knot, you don't need devices agree on the cam hooks but start with only 2, they are not usually left as a placement you leapfrog them, you'll never need 4 unless you're doing nothing but aid. yes on the offsets, good for flaring pin scars look for used gear, especially the nuts and beaners, it gets beat up anyway aiding. some classic lines are City Park, Stern Farmer, Narrow Arrow Direct then do Town Crier solo in a long day. (I did it on summer solstice) for City Park you need one set cams, one set nuts and 2 more sets of mid to smallest nuts including offsets. 6-8 draws, 20 free beaners, couple slings. Cordalette(optional) aid is much maligned but it's a very good teaching tool to learn placements of gear. You get to study placements up close and concentrate on just that without worrying about free climbing. It' also a necessary skill if you ever want to do the Salathe or the Nose and don't climb 5.13. until you learn to not jam nuts take a small cleaning hammer you can tap the back of the cleaning tool with. If you bounce test too hard on City Park or similar stuff they will jam. Like a little tack hammer works best. For C-2 you might want to add a couple A5 bird beaks for thin seams, you can tap them in with the small cleaning hammer. They work when nothing else will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 buck, you talking 'bout metolious adjustable etriers? if so, i fucking hate them and will gladly sell them to you stopgo if you want'em - i found the buckle awful vexing - they are light though why are you anti-grigri buck? i've taken a shitload of falls on mine and i use it to jug when cleaning my pitches too so i just need one jug - i guess i don't totally understand the knot solo thing but it sure seems sketchier birdbeaks do rock, especially when you drive'em like pins - i found they work just fine hand-placed though in thin cracks at index like narrow arrow overhang town crier solo is fun, better yet is take a portaledge up and link it w/ green dragon, which i found more funner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 buck, you talking 'bout metolious adjustable etriers? if so, i fucking hate them why are you anti-grigri buck? guess i don't totally understand the knot solo thing but it sure seems sketchier birdbeaks do rock, especially when you drive'em like pins - i found they work just fine hand-placed town crier solo is fun, better yet is take a portaledge up and link it w/ green dragon, which i found more funner Yeah I had step aiders for a long time, then tried the Metolius sliders and would never go back. No more trying to get your foot in a loop in the wind. Don't need them on a daisy cuz they're hooked to your foot, And they always top step higher than a step aider because they are adjustable not fixed, so you get more reach on each placement. Thus less placements and quicker pitches. you should just keep working them till you figure them out I guess I shouldn't say I'm anti belay device cuz I have used the soloist. I've heard the gri-gri is even better but I've never used it. Did you do the little mod where you take out the corner piece? the clove hitch just always seemed so simple, but I've never done anything more than C2, maybe one or two C3 placements. With the clove hitch you just hitch a extra large beaner at your waist, when you've climbed up till the rope is tight, you place a piece as high as possible, then pull enough slack through the knot to clip that piece. Then you'll have enough slack to climb to that piece and the next one before you have to pull slack again. So pulling slack every 2 pieces. Then of course a back up figure 8 loop on another waist beaner to keep from a ground fall. Yeah I guess the bird beaks place without hammering, it's been a while since I placed one. never had a porta-ledge, did do Green Dragon but with a partner. The link up sounds good, did it take two days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valhallas Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Definitely two sets of ladders... I'm just curious, when you say two sets of ladders/etriers, do you mean 4 total, of is this a set of ladders like pants come in pairs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climbercam Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Definitely two sets of ladders... I'm just curious, when you say two sets of ladders/etriers, do you mean 4 total, of is this a set of ladders like pants come in pairs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valhallas Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Interesting, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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