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Matt_Alford

[TR] Teebone Ridge - Complete Traverse 8/1/2009

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Trip: Teebone Ridge - Complete Traverse

 

Date: 8/1/2009

 

Trip Report:

Dave Svilar and I completed the Teebone Ridge Traverse starting at the Cascade River Road and ending at the Newhalem Creek Trailhead 2 1/2 days later. The route featured steep heather side hilling, 3rd & 4th class rock, steep snow and ice, and a memorable bushwack/rappel fest/ canyoneering epic to top it all off. Dave and I spent 7 hours descending 3000 feet from the north tip of Teebone to the Newhalem Creek Trail. Rad Descent!!!

Beyond Little Devil Peak we encountered no evidence on humans, pretty unique for the the proximity to the Cascade River Road.

 

All and all a great trip with outstanding positions and unforgettable bivi's.

 

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Gear Notes:

Brought lots with intentions of new routes. Used the ropes to rappel cliff bands and waterfalls.

 

Approach Notes:

Monogram Lake Trail and head north towards Little Devil Peak.

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Should have listened to you Blake, but I thought there might be something decent on the Trapezoid. Oh well, don't know until you go and have a peak!

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So it sounds like it's a great lonely wilderness traverse, but one should leave most of the gear behind, eh? I've looked at that route on a map, and at pictures of the peaks in the Green book, I'd have guessed there might be a few possible interesting lines too, but you and Blake suggest that's not really the case.

 

Got any more details or photos of your descent, that sounds like the crux of the biscuit?

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yes anymore details and or photos would be great!

 

Awesome traverse! I just may have to check it out sometime. Thanks for sharing

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I have some video of the descent that I am working on loading.

 

I could look at the map and tell you what not to do (what we did) and what I think might be another option. Let me know if you want details.

 

 

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Matt, could you tell me what you would suggest not doing, also could we get by without bringing a rope for the little bit of glacier?

 

thanks

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The Peak on the left is either Fallen Angel or Point 6840.

 

it does sorta look like it could be the other side of F A. JR has a pic here - http://www.rhinoclimbs.com/1982FA.htm - and I looked at it in Oct. 07 - http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/87239171 - I can't quite make it match up though.

 

regardless, you deserve a 'Roper' award for that trip...

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it does sorta look like it could be the other side of F A. JR has a pic here - http://www.rhinoclimbs.com/1982FA.htm - and I looked at it in Oct. 07 - http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/87239171 - I can't quite make it match up though.

Yes, Fallen Angel, from the south.

 

There is a route that avoids difficulties on that northern end. Head north from the NPS marker near pt 5362 and head for the gentle peninsula below. Then head for the stream shown on the topo which crosses the road. There is some terrain in the area and I'm not surprise you got cliffed out, especially if you went further east to intersect the trail rather than northerly to the road.

 

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