North Cascades 4th/low 5th class

[adam8333]

Does anyone have any recommendations for three or four quality routes in the north cascades that are either 4th class or low 5th class (5.0-5.6) multi-pitch? We have the second week in August to kill and I'm looking at taking my wife up a few climbs with me.

 

Thanks

 

Adam

Edited July 29, 2009 by adam8333

[Off_White]

I assume you have glacier skills? North Ridge of Forbidden, the full rock line rather than the snow bypass, is tough to beat at that grade, a fabulous north cascades tour.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I assume you have glacier skills? North Ridge of Forbidden, the full rock line rather than the snow bypass, is tough to beat at that grade, a fabulous north cascades tour.

 

How is route-finding on that one? Straightforward enough?

[DPS]

I assume you have glacier skills? North Ridge of Forbidden, the full rock line rather than the snow bypass, is tough to beat at that grade, a fabulous north cascades tour.

 

How is route-finding on that one? Straightforward enough?

Yes, very straight foward. Jump on the ridge at the low spot near the toe and go up. We found the hardest climbing at 5.6 to be very low down when bypassing a gendarme/tower feature. For its grade it is one of the best alpine tours in the range IMHO.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I assume you have glacier skills? North Ridge of Forbidden, the full rock line rather than the snow bypass, is tough to beat at that grade, a fabulous north cascades tour.

 

How is route-finding on that one? Straightforward enough?

Yes, very straight foward. Jump on the ridge at the low spot near the toe and go up. We found the hardest climbing at 5.6 to be very low down when bypassing a gendarme/tower feature. For its grade it is one of the best alpine tours in the range IMHO.

 

perfectly doable in August? I am getting tempted here... :-)

[DPS]

Michael Stanton and I did it in August car to car in a reasonable day: http://www.mountainwerks.org/cma/2002/forbidden.htm. Conditions seemed perfect.

[Le Piston]

You can't beat Forbidden as a great climb with killer views. You might also look into Black Peak, Sahale, Mix Up, Eldorado, Mix Up, and Dorado Needle. Check some of the TR's and pics and see if they meet your criteria. Cheers!

[KaskadskyjKozak]

You can't beat Forbidden as a great climb with killer views. You might also look into Black Peak, Sahale, Mix Up, Eldorado, Mix Up, and Dorado Needle. Check some of the TR's and pics and see if they meet your criteria. Cheers!

 

I've heard the rockfall on Mixup is atrocious.

[Doug]

You can't beat Forbidden as a great climb with killer views. You might also look into Black Peak, Sahale, Mix Up, Eldorado, Mix Up, and Dorado Needle. Check some of the TR's and pics and see if they meet your criteria. Cheers!

 

I've heard the rockfall on Mixup is atrocious.

 

I can personally attest to that. While waiting on a ledge I took a fist sized rock on my right quad that broke the material on my pants and skin. Big frickin' welt too.

 

But he must like it; he listed it twice!

[KaskadskyjKozak]

You can't beat Forbidden as a great climb with killer views. You might also look into Black Peak, Sahale, Mix Up, Eldorado, Mix Up, and Dorado Needle. Check some of the TR's and pics and see if they meet your criteria. Cheers!

 

I've heard the rockfall on Mixup is atrocious.

 

I can personally attest to that. While waiting on a ledge I took a fist sized rock on my right quad that broke the material on my pants and skin. Big frickin' welt too.

 

But he must like it; he listed it twice!

 

It was high on my tick list until I heard several similar stories.

 

If I bag it it will be as a team of 2 that moves well on loose shit. :-)

 

[t_rutl]

perfectly doable in August? I am getting tempted here... :-)

 

heading out Sat morn so let's hope so...heard the moat/schrund can be a biatch

[Le Piston]

Sorry, the listing twice is just sleep deprivation. I list it not as a favorite, just an option to consider. I'd take Sahale or Black Peak over Mix Up any day.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Sorry, the listing twice is just sleep deprivation. I list it not as a favorite, just an option to consider. I'd take Sahale or Black Peak over Mix Up any day.

 

I've been up Sahale twice. I'd love to make a run up the NE ridge of Black sometime.

 

 

[Le Piston]

I did the Northeast ridge about 4 years ago. I'd be up for a repeat. I only have weekends (except when I'm on call at work) off and a Canada trip Aug. 15-23. PM me if you're interested.

[adam8333]

Thanks for the tips, I'll look a little harder at those.

[kevino]

I assume you have glacier skills? North Ridge of Forbidden, the full rock line rather than the snow bypass, is tough to beat at that grade, a fabulous north cascades tour.

 

How is route-finding on that one? Straightforward enough?

Yes, very straight foward. Jump on the ridge at the low spot near the toe and go up. We found the hardest climbing at 5.6 to be very low down when bypassing a gendarme/tower feature. For its grade it is one of the best alpine tours in the range IMHO.

 

perfectly doable in August? I am getting tempted here... :-)

 

You can look at my past TR. We did it last august and it was great. The hardest route finding was the descent! Awesome route.

[marc_leclerc]

I know this is in B.C but if you can get to the SE face of Stonerabbit Peak or the SW Butress of Old Settler's South Peak, those are both low 5th, 4 star routes.

 

Also, the Ensakwatch Enchainment is good.

Edited July 31, 2009 by marc_leclerc

[curtveld]

I've heard the rockfall on Mixup is atrocious.

Interesting...I did the East Face of Mixup and it was great. Minimal loose rock rock for that type of route and fabulous views.

 

Otherwise Adam, the standard route of Kangaroo Temple and lots of climbs in the Twin Sisters Range might fit the bill.

[Lowell_Skoog]

I've heard the rockfall on Mixup is atrocious.

Interesting...I did the East Face of Mixup and it was great. Minimal loose rock rock for that type of route and fabulous views.

 

Otherwise Adam, the standard route of Kangaroo Temple and lots of climbs in the Twin Sisters Range might fit the bill.

 

The bad rock on Mixup is at the bottom (climbing out of Gunsight Notch) and at the top (reaching the summit crest). The middle section is very clean, easy, and solid. A friend of mine died in a rappelling/rockfall accident high on the peak in 1987. There was another serious accident a few years later when the rappel anchor above Gunsight Notch failed.

 

[t_rutl]

if you end up in the Boston Basin area...adding on Sharkfin Tower would be a hoot.

[t_rutl]

fyi...Forbidden's West Rigde couloir is shot...attain the ridge by climbing the loose gully to the climber's left (off camera)...we did a traverse climbing the East Ridge decending the West Ridge...did not climb the gulley but that was the approach of choice by all on route...however it was not pleasantly spoken of...on the descent rap down the rib between the first two gulleys to the descender's right of the couloir (which we did)...5 perfectly spaced single rope stations gets you to the snow in no time

 

[catbirdseat]

I've heard the rockfall on Mixup is atrocious.

Interesting...I did the East Face of Mixup and it was great. Minimal loose rock rock for that type of route and fabulous views.

 

Otherwise Adam, the standard route of Kangaroo Temple and lots of climbs in the Twin Sisters Range might fit the bill.

 

The bad rock on Mixup is at the bottom (climbing out of Gunsight Notch) and at the top (reaching the summit crest). The middle section is very clean, easy, and solid. A friend of mine died in a rappelling/rockfall accident high on the peak in 1987. There was another serious accident a few years later when the rappel anchor above Gunsight Notch failed.

Lowell, when I climbed Mixup, we found a rock lying on the ground below the notch with a sling tied around it. You better believe that got our attention. I remembered what you told me about losing your friend, so I was super cautious. When rappelling off the summit, we found a place that was sheltered below a small overhang. We each hung out there until the ropes were pulled. Rocks came down with the ropes!

 

When we rappelled back into the notch the rock looked really bad, so we backup of the anchor we found with a cam. As Rudy would say say, we sent "fatty" down first (that would be me), and skinny went last after pulling the backup. Halfway into the rap, I dislodged a breadloaf sized rock. I tried to put it back in its slot, but had to give up on that. I had to let it go and it just missed landing on the coils of extra rope that were lying on the ground.