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luvshaker

Smith Rock-easiest onsights/hard for the grade?

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Shapps point about the gorge is well taken. A friend and I were talking about Cruel Sister the other day, .10a? Couldn't even finish it on TR the first time. Def harder than Karate Crack.

 

Personally, I find it to be the exact opposite...go figure.

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Cruel Sister (IMO), is a full grade harder than Karate Crack. Karate Crack would be 5.9 in the valley.

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Cruel Sister (IMO), is a full grade harder than Karate Crack. Karate Crack would be 5.9 in the valley.

 

Just came from the valley and did some nines and 10a's. I think Karate would be 10a in the valley, but only because of that traverse. You get so pumped on karate, and then you have to fish around for pro for your follower at the traverse at the very end.

 

Or maybe it's just this old bag of bones. If I could build up my pullup power I might change my mind on that.

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Cruel Sister (IMO), is a full grade harder than Karate Crack. Karate Crack would be 5.9 in the valley.

 

karate crack would be 10.b in the valley cause it would proly be slick as snot....

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yeah...but it'd be nice smooth jams instead of raggedy tuff shite...

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Bunny Face (5.6) is a total sandbag. The first few moves off the deck are *hard*

 

I think Revelation (5.9) is soft for the grade. Either way, lots of bomber gear placements.

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OMG

 

 

 

 

 

Damn I need to find a new belayer in bend now. WTF

 

Hey, asshole, what about me!!! It's been reported that I've traded my rope for a mountain bike, but I still climb....sorta.

 

That short pitch out of the west cave of the Monkey is the hardest 11b jug haul I've ever attempted...had to AO out of the bitch.

 

Pouches is dead on 11b

 

Heresy is......

 

Hemp Liberation is unclimbable because of its bullshit bolting.

 

Darkside spits me off every time.

 

Reason To Be and I have a history

 

Moons, although incredible, is a bit soft.

 

BBQ is not 10b--it's 10zzz (the crux is not falling asleep on the fucker.

 

John Gault is sssttttiiifffffffffff.

 

Who compared Pack Animal Direct to that climb in the gorge...I call bullshit. You just gotta climb with your feet on on Pack Animal. But, I will admit, Jlag puts this one up for me...I'm a pussy gear placer.

 

License to Bolt is as sandbag as it gets.

 

Fred is sorta 10d

 

 

I'm rambling....................

Edited by backclipped

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Unless your a competent climber in both the Gorge and on Tuff, it's really hard to be giving out accurate info on grades. I wouldn't begin to grade stuff in the Gorge, as i suck down there. It depends so much on trad experience, height, hand size, etc. Also remember grading started out as a base opinion on if one was ON-SIGHTING the climb, not TR or following. At least that's why my old school ass was always taught. This makes a really big difference.

 

Just climb and have a good time. Too much empasis on grading leads to EGO climbing and not enough just moving over stone. If your a climber it runs in your blood, period.

 

JL

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