tanstaafl Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Not that this is really very interesting, but it seems like the climbing content has been way down lately so here's my effort to up it a bit. Somebody post something more interesting, please. On Saturday der Rat and I climbed up at Bridge Creek Wall. When we came down and were driving into Leavenworth, the road was friggin' *lined* with cars, but there wasn't a soul at BCW besides us and a couple of golden eagles. There isn't a trail up to BCW and while it's certainly not an approach I would describe as heinous, it took a bit of time and effort to get there. Rat moves fast enough that it was all – ok, more – than I could do to keep up; he had to stop and wait for me more than once. Once at the rock I gave him the first lead, largely because my Reynaud's had kicked in while we geared up in the shade and I figured I could coax circulation back into my fingers while he got up the first pitch. Our plan had been to do the CS Variation, but in the end we think we started somewhere else. He led up a somewhat mossy chimney and then I continued up a vegetation-choked gully. Someone had bailed from the top of the gully, so I bootied two wired hexes, four (!!!) biners, and a sunbleached sling. Rolf then led a sweet pitch up some left-facing corners and traversing under some roofs, digging out placements as he went, and belayed below a perfect hand crack, which I completely failed to climb. While the crack itself looked nice enough, getting into it looked tricky (to me; not to Rat I'm sure) and getting out of it did as well. What *was* up above that flake at the top anyway? When after mucho climbing of vegetation and shenanigans and back and forth and oh fuck why am I so stupid and why do I still suck so much after all these years, I finally got above the crack, I was actually just as happy I didn't suck it up and climb it; it looked like it ended in hairy slab moves. I'm probably wrong though. I proceeded up a nice wide crack in which you could get excellent thigh jams to a belay at a very large dead tree. Rolf led a fairly forgettable pitch from there and I scored the last beautiful ramp pitch, definitely on the route we intended to climb. It was nice and clean and easy, just my style. The descent was long. I read on someone's blog not too long ago that if you can speak, you aren't really working out. On the approach, and even more, on the descent, I just could not agree with this sentiment. I could speak, but damn I sure felt like I was getting a workout. Again, it was more than I could do to keep up, desperately sliding down through the dirt and rocks and grass and salal and stickery things. I slipped and fell on my ass five times on the descent, I do believe. Still, Rat got a worse deal as he took a stob to the shin…ouch. Heidelberger and ice cream concluded a lovely day. Gear: I wished I had worn socks with my rock shoes; I think I would have noticed the dirt in my shoes a lot less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 cool, pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 I regret to say that neither Rolf nor I actually own a camera, much to the irritation of our friends. Sorry 'bout that. I had one for almost a year but it broke on the bus ride from Chile to Argentina, just before the most photogenic parts of the trip. But allow me to say thanks for all your TRs from the Leavenworth area, Sol, they're very inspiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 His are inspiring because they include pics. Quit school for a quarter and buy a camera. I kick myself HARD every time I think back to all the climbing I did in the Bitterroots without a camera. Good tr though. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 His are inspiring because they include pics. Quit school for a quarter and buy a camera. Hah, it's 20 years too late for me to quit school, although I suppose I could get laid off any day now. I kick myself HARD every time I think back to all the climbing I did in the Bitterroots without a camera. You have a point, although I kicked myself after spending a few trips looking more through the lens of a camera than at what was actually happening around me at the time, or spending the time I should have been staring at some wild creature in awe fumbling to get my camera out. But definitely some pics are nice. Maybe after I replace my rock shoes and the slings that have been left on alpine peaks or stolen by partners. Good tr though. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Sounds like the best approach is to go up there and climb whatever looks good to you. Aye? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rat Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 the nose, the left hand finish (c.s.l.) to the nose and, from what i've heard, the east face are probably the best lines. k.l.b. looks cool also. i haven't spoken with jens or dan regarding the new line they climbed earlier this year. otherwise, prepare to dirt weasel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 (edited) Even with a Rat to bail you out I'm still impressed. Way to get out and explore the gnar. Rock shoes with socks, is that like shorts over polypro. How does Rat wear them? Edited June 25, 2009 by pms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 rat climbs with just his hoofs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 His are inspiring because they include pics. Quit school for a quarter and buy a camera. Hah, it's 20 years too late for me to quit school, although I suppose I could get laid off any day now. 20? Whippersnaper. I kick myself HARD every time I think back to all the climbing I did in the Bitterroots without a camera. You have a point, although I kicked myself after spending a few trips looking more through the lens of a camera than at what was actually happening around me at the time, or spending the time I should have been staring at some wild creature in awe fumbling to get my camera out. But definitely some pics are nice. Maybe after I replace my rock shoes and the slings that have been left on alpine peaks or stolen by partners. Get a digi and keep it in a pocket or easily accessible pouch. The The screen helps you visualize the frame quicker and more easily so you can get back to those intimate moments with nature. Good tr though. thanks. Don't get layed off. It sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 Even with a Rat to bail you out I'm still impressed. Way to get out and explore the gnar. Rock shoes with socks, is that like shorts over polypro. How does Rat wear them? Hey now there was no bailout, I always led my 60 meters of dirt! I mean gnar. Even if it wasn't always pretty. It's true that it's always good to have a Rat in reserve, though. From my observations, I suggest only the finest of men's dress socks from Goodwill with your rock shoes for maximum sendage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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