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Beacon: Peregrine Status


JosephH

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their side of the rock was super stormy today - completly mist shrouded - climbing on the n side under the giant roof by headspace however was dry n' sweeeet!

 

off a week from today for the mighty summer - last school of today ( :rawk: !) - the falcons can lick my taint - 5 weeks from now, after squampton, n cascades and the valley, it'll be there, sans all the harsh'n'my'mellow signs for that good season, the fall and its storms, and no crowds! :)

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Thanks for keeping us posted. I can't wait to get out there. Love that place even if I can only climb 5 routes there.

which 5 perchance? i bet there are more you can do, especially if you're willing to relax your sense of style a bit :)

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Thanks for keeping us posted. I can't wait to get out there. Love that place even if I can only climb 5 routes there.

which 5 perchance? i bet there are more you can do, especially if you're willing to relax your sense of style a bit :)

 

Well if have not sold out to aidin:crazy: yet if that is what you were getting to ;)

 

But never say never

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most of beacon's routes can be done by the weak (such as myself) w/ no pure aiding (no etriers) - a fifi hook and a willingness to french/fifi on gear when desperate allows you to retain/regain strenght to get through difficult sections, meanwile you free everything you can

 

some very fun climbs that can be done in this mixed style (say 5.9 C1):

- blood sweat n' smears

- flying swallow (use local access/flight time to approach its upper 2 pitches, all of which but the first 30 feet can be free climbed by the 5.9 climber)

- blownout

- bluebird

- stephenwulf (madness!)

- jensen's ridge

- complete dod's jam (dastardly crack at the top is a delight for the 5.8/9 freeclimber)

- riverside (meow!)

 

at any rate, its a massively cool chunk of stone, and you shouldn't let percieved weakness scare you away from those intimidating routes - someway or another, i always seem to find my way up them and i can't climb to save my life!

 

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Don't get me wrong it is not percieved weakness scare me. Right now it is lack of strenth and ballzzz. Just need to get out more. I was making good headway last year and intend to get a lot better this year. Got a couple I tried last year and this year will get them clean. I am not afraid to hang dog it :)

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Off topic, but is any of the Beacon locals looking for a summer intern? Looking to get on some longer routes and get into the trad game and perhaps some aiding… Beacon looks like a great place to learn just need someone willing to hand down the knowledge. I lead 5.10b sport if that helps. I work 4-10’s

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I don’t understand how the powers that be consider the climbers (who could easily be told to stay more than 300 feet from the nest) to be a threat of some sort to the birds……yet the 300 – 500 screaming tourist with kids that walk the trail that is one full 200 foot rope length from the nest not to be a threat. I just don’t get it…..and apparently they don’t either. So until they do get that one small fact. This particular closure is total and utter bullshit. So if you are reading this (rangers, biologist, WSP, or who ever), please take your head out of your ass and step back a minute and look at your own rule. The hypocrisy surrounding this closure is astounding.

 

Have a nice day.

 

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clibmed the n side today w/ the irrascible kenny - will be spending all evening in monastic prayer as i contemplate the inevitable poison oak wallowing that finished off to the summit

 

might should take some pix on my camera - why can't i have a photo-coolie?

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