New Shit has Come to Light - 47 new pitches!

[shapp]

Any one new get out there after seeing this thread?

[tanstaafl]

R and I stopped there yesterday after failing on our alpine objective (which was totally my fault; I suuuck). Scampered up Other Side of the Tracks; it was a fun route and pitches 2 and 3 were stellar. We both found the 5.9+ move on the first pitch to be the hardest thing on the route though!

 

Another pair were out there too climbing...something to the right; I't not sure what.

[mountainmatt]

I definitely thought that move was hard as well.

[KAB]

'twas I who was off to the right.

 

We spent most of the day thrashing around in the brush, trying to find Romantica, only to realize our folly (twice) was that the right fork in the trail that leads to the Romantica area was not the right fork we thought it was... I *think* the correct fork is the one a few feet before the double cairns that you walk between on the approach trail (this rightward fork is also marked with orange ribbon at the junction, we simply didn't notice it until completely exhausting the "run off madly into the brush" alternative). It is definitely not the one a few feet after the double set of carins that heads steeply uphill--though this trail does seem to lead to a solitary climb on an arete underneath the right end of the cloven roof. nor is it found by heading right once you hit the wall at the back of Erocktica (this trail simply ends under the left side of the cloven roof at some very steep brush).

 

So, after getting the full Darrington experience in the brush, we returned to climb Erocktica, due to the then short amount of time we had to climb. Erocktica was a fun climb, worth heading out there for. I definitely recommend linking the 1st and second pitches, being wary of rope drag. It could use another chain on the 3rd pitch anchors for rappelling (the anchor is a two-bolt anchor, though only one bolt has a welded-rap ring). The 4th pitch is the money pitch (or maybe p2...) and stays interesting for a while. I'd recommend plugging some gear in the undercling after the 3rd bolt off the belay to protect an awkwardish move that is high off the bolt (maybe C4 #.4 or .5--I didn't lead it, so I can't say for sure). The last pitch protects well in random cracks and solution pockets. We also found that neither of the last two pitches were as long as the guide suggests (50 and 45 m respectively) they were probably closer to 40m each. Also, I'd be interested to know if anyone has tried to rap the top two pitches with a single 70m rope? It looks like it'd be a real rope stretcher, but maybe possible. Lastly, the final rap from the top of p3 is free-hanging for a bit, so rapping it on a munter, because you're a dumbass and left your ATC in the car, sucks.

 

Great climb, I'll be heading back to for Other Side of the Tracks and Romantica at some point. Thanks to the crew that invested the time to put up these quality routes! The rest of us can do a hand by climbing them to keep em' clean!

 

 

Kevin

[mattp]

There is a trick to that hard move on the first pitch of "Tracks." Try turning around and facing the other direction.

 

To reach "Romanitica," the correct trail is a right fork not far past the double cairns, but the "trail" on up to the route is probably nonexistent at this point as, even when it was seeing regular traffic, there wasn't much of a trail and the Anenome grows in really strong every year. Romantica and two other routes start on low angled slabs below and left of the large white overhangs that make up the central part of the next higher tier of cliffs.

 

The last two parties have reported following a topo that does not show the last pitch of "Erocktika" but there is a new topo that shows Erock and Tracks on one drawing and shows the complete version of both. The last pitch of E-Rock heads right, and then up an arete and there are a couple of cool features along the way. There is a rap route that parallels the route from the top of the last pitch, and a station part way up that last pitch, then two stations in space followed by one near that "third" pitch belay station but about 20 feet up and right, and there is an intermittent station before the ground (if anybody heads up there with quick links and chain - and I have some I bought for that purpose - I would be happy to have my 'biners back). I think it is possible to rappel the entire rap route with a single 60 meter rope, but it might turn out to require 62 meters -- until someone goes and verifies this its a good idea to take two ropes. I DO know that to rap from the top of the climb it takes three slightly less than 60 meter rappels if you skip the intermittent stations and all raps are nearly straight vertical in orientation so you shouldn't get lost. If you do decide to head up there with a single rope, consider what you think you are going to do if you get a single rope stuck.

 

If somebody wants to go up there and help me tinker a bit, I'm still working on E-Rock. Send me a P.M.

 

The single pitch route "Driving Miss Daisy" or "Trophy Wife" is very worthwhile, but once again the approach involves some thrash.

[shapp]

Try grabbing the two slopers over the lip and straight arm/layback leaning to the left, as you do this throw your right foot up to the highest good nub you can get your foot onto just over the lap. Now don't linger - in one fluid commiting move, layback and pull up on the slopers and roll up onto your right foot - 5.9 at best (p.s. I still can't get up the 3rd pitch without a hang).

Edited July 7, 2009 by shapp

[tanstaafl]

I ended up making the move more shapp's way; facing the other direction didn't work for me at all. I used one sloper and a little crimper for my left; and had to rock over and THEN stand up. Perhaps having done it once I would be more inclined next time to just go for rocking over and standing up in one motion and believing I would not take a backwards header, but trying it first time I wasn't at all sure.

 

Funny how differently people do the same thing. I onsighted p3 and felt really solid on it despite a few "watch me's" but that easier move....not so much.

[hanman]

Good to see people getting out there; Romantica being uphill from the main crag is subject to big slides in the winter that result in varying "trail conditions". Having not been past the arete climb (Heavens to Mergatroid) this season, it's probably best to step left here about 100 feet and work up the least brushy path through the vine maple. Not much fun but worth the effort. Romantica starts 40 feet right of the major waterfall dihedral(water all year).

 

Have fun!

 

 

 

 

M. Hanna

[JoshK]

BUMP.

 

We did "Other Side of the Tracks Today" and were very impressed, so I wanted to give this thread a bump! Nice work by the folks who did all the scrubbing and bolting. From the bottom it looked liked it might be mossy, but all the holds you needed were clean, and the climbing was steep on great rock. The little spring at the base of the cliff is a nice bonus, along with two gorgeous old growth trees right near the the start of the route. This cliff was a great find.

 

:tup:

 

* * * * *

[wayne]

Agreed, as I accompanied Mr K today.

Question for the developers: How do you get over to the far left side, Trophy Wife etc?

Looked like quite a shwack

[mattp]

Nope. Trophy Wife is worth the hike and not a bad schwack as there is something like the rough trappings of a trail headed over there. It is the combined result of game animals and climbers. Just start pawing at the bush and heading that way and you will find your way along the bottom of the cliff.

 

This place has a lot of potential.

 

I don't blame you or anyone else for thinking it is overgrown. It is Western Washington and covered with life. But if you persist the Darrington Effect kicks in. First you find that a climb that looks mossy from below turns out to offer clean holds, but then you find that a "trail" that appears non-existent actually exists.

 

Don't let the wild rose and anenome bushes get you down. They are beautiful and although at least the roses may have some thorns, the anenome does not and the area is highly scenic. The rock is very interesting and this place is a treat.

[JoshK]

Don't let the wild rose and anenome bushes get you down. They are beautiful and although at least the roses may have some thorns, the anenome does not and the area is highly scenic. The rock is very interesting and this place is a treat.

 

I agree, we sat there in awe of the two giants that tower above the beginning of the climb. It takes almost two entire long pitches to pass the tops of them. How nice a spring at the crag is, and a belay in flowers and some sweet smelling herb as opposed to dust. And the perfect belay seat evergreen 3 pitches up. It's all very elven...

 

 

And the view of the verdant N Fork Sauk river valley the entire time

[hanman]

Mr BenMurphy, Danny, and myself put up a nice 2 P 5.9/+ to the direct left of Romantica a couple weeks ago. It is called Vitamin R. Overall, about 300 feet of really nice moves and position, which ends on the big bench. Approach trail is in good shape all the way up to the Romantica area. Plans to continue for a few more pitches are in the works. Some photos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 7, 2010 by hanman

[benmurphy]

tis a fine route indeed!

for the first 2 pitches you need about 12-14 draws (11 bolts on the first pitch along with gear placements) and gear to about 2 inches with emphasis on the small stuff (orange tcu and smaller)...

happy trails...

[shapp]

Third pitch crack to be done after I get my dam bathroom remodel done!

[tanstaafl]

Not sure how much traffic these routes get these days, though the boulders in the forest have been scrubbed clean clean clean. 

Climbed Romantica on Saturday; it was a little scruffy but at least as clean as Training Day.  Most everything on the left side looked pretty damn mossy though (from the ground at least) as compared to TEN years ago, which was apparently the last time I was there.   If you go, consider bringing a wire brush and tidying up a little.