Most over-bolted Oregon Crag

[shapp]

To Follow up on Checat, which crag is the most horendously over-bolted crag in the state, one to take as an example of how not to develop an area. A close race between Flagstone and Spring Mountain. Now I am not saying there aren't good climbs there, but somewhere along the way things spiralled out of control with any sort of reasonable bolt counts and route spacing.

 

Shapp

Edited April 10, 2009 by shapp

[Ishmael]

The "Lack"...

[Checat]

Some of the formations at the Callahans...not all.

 

I believe this has a lot to do with the fact that many over-bolted lines at the Callahans were developed by the same people that over-bolted at flagstone. Last name starts and ends with a T...

 

Same thing at Hills Creek Spires...

Edited April 10, 2009 by Checat

[ivan]

smith doesn't count?

[Checat]

areas of smith... probably in distinct correlation with the period of climbing in which a particular area was developed...

 

[powderhound]

I was thinking...the hagg lake roadcut, it has four bolts and should have zero....the biggest pile of dirt around, one route, not worth the bolts. Anyone else climbed this poor excuse of a route?

[shapp]

In terms of density (# bolts to square feet of climbable area) I bet smith has way less bolts than Flagstone or Spring Mt. Lets call a spade a spade, the Tvedt's are largely responsible for the B.S. at flagstone.

Edited April 10, 2009 by shapp

[Checat]

And to think, they are heralded as local legends around eugene...I guess its an accomplishment to develop routes for pre-teens, the elderly and the incompetent.

[shapp]

I don't think pre-teen or elderly has anything to do with it, but incompetent yes. I am from Eugene and don't know anyone who thinks they are anything but dumbass climbers with a drill and way too much time.

 

 

 

[Checat]

It was probably a couple years back but the REI in Eugene had them putting on clinics. I was always under the impression they bolted so that there children could lead what they were, and thats the way it should be after all: we should be able to customize every crag to fit our needs right?

 

The last time I visited F-stone there was a particular Fralick route that had yet to be retro-bolted. That remains my 2nd favorite climb (Ain't no Disco is sick!) out there (for the moves, not just the distance between bolts). I've heard the argument before "...you don't have to clip the new bolts, you can skip the ones you want...". It doesn't seem like it should be that way though...

[kevbone]

smith doesn't count?

 

 

Dude.....alot of smith climbs are run out.

[111]

smith doesn't count?

 

 

Dude.....alot of smith climbs are run out.

Alot? No. A very small percentage.

[corvallisclimb]

Some of the formations at the Callahans...not all.

 

I believe this has a lot to do with the fact that many over-bolted lines at the Callahans were developed by the same people that over-bolted at flagstone. Last name starts and ends with a T...

 

Same thing at Hills Creek Spires...

 

Hills Creek Spires has about 20 routes only 2 or 3 being the Tvedts, this crag is not in anyway over bolted. Plus one of them he put up on lead so it is not your standard Tvedt route.

[jlag]

Both "run-out" and " a lot" are subjective.

 

 

 

 

JL

[Checat]

I had to knock loose some cob-webs on this one, but your right, there atypical for tvedt routes. And ironically the only gear right there I think was put up by them...