[TR] Red Rocks - the trade routes 3/30/2009

[Lisa_D]

Trip: Red Rocks - the trade routes

 

Date: 3/30/2009

 

Trip Report:

We wanted to escape rainy Seattle. We found cheap tickets + car rental in Vegas. Red Rocks it was. Our first night in the desert brought a violent windstorm that filled our tent with dust, and then RAIN AND COLD.

 

So, we vowed never to stay at a campground again and made this first rainy day of our climbing trip a rest day. We found some sun at Lake Mead.

 

Then we explored the Strip, attired in camelbaks and approach shoes.

 

We did some gambling.

 

 

 

Venice? No, we're indoors.

 

Finally, it was time to get ready for climbing. Sorting gear in the free parking garage. After our miserable night at the campground, we decided that it was ridiculous to pay for a patch of dirt. We folded down the seats in the compact car, which gave us sleeping space. For the next 6 days it was our home-away-from home and we lived in parking lots.

 

First objective: 10 pitches on the Solar Slab. Early morning sun on Red Rocks.

 

C'mon, do we actually look like dirtbags?

 

Our 10 pitch linkup involved 2 routes. We started out with Johnny Vegas (5.7) and finished with Sunflower (5.9). The rock is amazing here; beautiful hard sandstone with lots of positive features and great gear placements. Some pitches, however, were a bit exciting and run-out.

 

Lisa leading a fun pitch.

 

We were expecting an easy day. This route is really popular and we were stuck behind a huge, slow party. But we didn't worry, just took our time and enjoyed the sunny climb.

 

The descent, according to Swain's guidebook, was a simple walk-off down a gully, involving 2 or 3 rappels. Figuring we didn't want to wait behind the slow party as they rapped 10 pitches, we decided on the gully. We'd scamper down and be back long before them!

 

But it was not to be. The gully was horrendous, with tricky route-finding, sketchy down-climbing, and scary rappels into nowhere. It got dark. In the casual preparation for the climb, I had forgotten my headlamp and had to depend on Jon to light my way. He was great, never losing patience and keeping me safe as we soloed down low 5th class rock into the dark. We gave a new name to the Red Rocks climbing guide: "SWAIN'S BOOK OF LIES."

 

As fate would have it, we ended up re-joining the rap route with the slower party. For some of the group members, it was their first multi-pitch and they did great, but were a bit slow. We helped them speed up the rope management a bit and zipped down on their ropes.

 

So, our warm-up day turned out to be an 18 hour adventure. We stumbled up to the parking lot at 11:30 PM, boiled some cous cous, threw in some cheese and Sun Chips crumbs. Surprisingly delicious. We slept in the next day and became tourists, laying in the sun, doing the scenic drive, hiking, and taking pictures. The biggest objective still lay ahead: Epinephrine, a 14+ pitch old-school 5.9 chimney route. This time, we planned carefully, set the alarm for 4:30 AM, and packed everything necessary for a serious climb. After braving the bumpy dirt road to the parking lot, we slept and arose early, well on our way before sunrise.

 

Black Velvet Canyon at sunrise.

 

We soloed the first low 5th class portion, and then Lisa led the first pitch, a 5.8 wake-up call with some exciting slab moves and run-outs. Then came the heart of the climb: 5 pitches of chimney. Jon leading the start of the chimney pitch.

 

more Chimney

 

and even more. Jon loves chimneys and had fun leading these pitches. He made good time.

 

Lisa hauling the pack up the chimney. Much slower going than Jon's chimney climbing..

 

We topped out on Black tower and climbed one more pitch. With 8 stiff pitches and a long walk-off to go, it was clear that we'd be out past dark if we continued. I (Lisa) was really drained from hauling the pack up 5 pitches of chimney, and it actually made Jon a bit worried. Epinephrine had gotten the best of me and we chose to descend with another party. This is the first time a route has made me too tired to go on.. humbling, but we want to give it another go next year and this gives me something to work toward. Double ropes are required to rappel this route, so we were fortunate that the other two climbers came along. I think we're going to get a set of twin ropes sometime soon.

 

After Epinephrine, we were both feeling a little thrashed. So we slept in, went out to breakfast, cragged in Pine Creek Canyon, and went out to Caesar's Palace for a legendary casino buffet. While cragging, a familiar face came around the corner: Blake Herrington, just back from Patagonia!

 

 

Our final day in Red Rocks was a lot of fun. We climbed the popular 7 pitch Frogland, a fun and varied 5.8 climb. Lisa on pitch 1. This route is in the shade almost the entire time, and it was cold!

 

Jon leading the crux pitch.

 

Staying hydrated.

 

We made quick work of the route and spent an hour laying in the sun on the summit. The walk-off from Frogland was quick and easy. We got a good look at Epinephrine in the background. Reluctantly, we hiked out and packed up for our early morning flight. We didn't really want to return to UW's rain and responsibilities after such a great week. Goodbye, Red Rocks! We'll be back.

 

Gear Notes:

2 ropes are handy for climbing at Red Rocks.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Damnit Lisa, quit following me! ;-) Were you on Frogland on Friday? I thought the person I talked to in the parking lot for Black Velvet Canyon was familiar, just wasn't expecting to see you there! Matt and I were headed in to Dream of Wild Turkeys. First Rainier in winter and now Red Rocks!

[Winter]

Hey nice TR. Thanks for the photos. Just got back from a trip to RR as well and am having a tough time refocusing on work.

 

Next time you are up on top of Solar Slab, try the Painted Bowl double rope descents as described for Black Orhpeus. Super fast and then a really straightforward 2nd class walk off into the drainage. And check out Black O for a great day out up a nice natural line.

[Lisa_D]

Stewart!! I also thought that you looked familiar, but you were wearing a hat and sunglasses. That is TOO funny. We did indeed run up Frogland on Friday.

 

re: solar slab descent.. we found out about that walk off from another party who had a better guidebook, AFTER our epic struggle. Definitely plan on doing that next time.

[Winter]

 

 

 

[nkane]

Yeah the Solar Slab Gully is definitely not a walk-off. I've been caught out after dark there myself.

[miladugga]

We were there on Monday, but to avoid the crowds we went for Jubilant Song on Windy Peak. A stuck rope (only brought one-it's a walk-off!) meant we topped out in the dark, also had only one headlamp, and took 7 hours to find our way down in the dark, unable to find the usual descent. Also took 18 hours, I guess that's the norm there!

[curtveld]

Yeah the Solar Slab Gully is definitely not a walk-off. I've been caught out after dark there myself.

+1

...figured out how to lay on the rope to keep my butt off the cold rock! Glad to hear that tradition is still alive.

 

Great pics Lisa (and Chris)!

[Sherri]

Terrific TR! We're packing up for our flight home from RR in the morning...your TR and photos make me wish I had done a lot more while we were here. Hard to get enough of this place.

 

Last autumn, I finally bought a pair of twin/double ropes(PMI Verglass), Been a great investment for the RR climbing--seems like every route needed two ropes either for rappel or for retrieving a stuck one.

 

Thanks for sharing your good times with us!

 

 

[denalidave]

Nice TR! I've been fantasizing about buying a dirt cheap condo there so I can go a few times a year.

 

I too bought a new set of doubles for my recent trip to RR. Having lived there for many years back in the day, I knew I needed doubles and this trip was the perfect excuse to buy a new set. Turns out, I never even got the chance to use my brand-spank-me-new ropes or much of the huge double rack I brought as I mostly climbed on the other random partners gear (Thanks Archie and the rest of PNWers that were there).

[jbyers]

What is it about people from the NW going to Red Rocks this time of year? Are we just that tired of the rain? Fed up with not having as many casinos and not being allowed to drink in public? I was down there last week and at least 80% of the people I ran into were from Oregon, Washington, or BC.

Winter- is that picture from last week?

[Crillz]

What is it about people from the NW going to Red Rocks this time of year? Are we just that tired of the rain? Fed up with not having as many casinos and not being allowed to drink in public?

 

Better lookin' hookers.

8D

[Winter]

Yep, that picture is from approximately last week - forget which day. We also ran into dozens of PNW folks. Here's another shot from the trip.

 

[111]

Thanks for the great info and shots on the chimney of Epi! I have wondered for a long time about the pro in there and is doesnt look bad at all. Now I just need to get rid of this pesky job so I can climb more!