Bug Posted March 27, 2009 Posted March 27, 2009 Heading up there this weekend. Who knows something about the wall? Quote
dberdinka Posted March 27, 2009 Posted March 27, 2009 It's a long loose slog up there (2hrs?) Beautiful hunk of rock. I once climbed to the top of the pedestal and lounged in the sun before turning tail. The "5.7" pitch on the left side is a Yosemite quality OW/squeeze, we avoided it by a nice 5.9 crack just to it's left. Not much info I know. I'm sure others have much more detail. If you search the AAJ online there is a description of some aid climbs, one that takes a beautiful thin splitter, that are not mentioned in the L-town guides. Quote
Bug Posted March 27, 2009 Author Posted March 27, 2009 I have been up there twice. Once I actually climbed but had to bail with a heat stroked partner. We were halk way up the line that finishes with the 5.11 pitches on the top headwall. The rock on the lower pitched was excellent. Well worth the slog. I am hoping someone will mention some easier climbing. Long cruiser? Fairy dust? Lepricon stash? Quote
DirtyHarry Posted March 27, 2009 Posted March 27, 2009 We freed (with falls) one of the aid lines that the Kramer guide mentioned. There was some good stuff but some serious dirt as well. Quote
Bug Posted March 27, 2009 Author Posted March 27, 2009 The forcast changed to heavy snow and raising avy danger. Doesn't look like the scattered sun breaks I was hoping for are going to happen. Thanks for the info. Another weekend... Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted March 30, 2009 Posted March 30, 2009 My girly-o and I ran up the bolted route on Condor Buttress today (Sunday). It was so damn pretty up there. I've never had that perspective on the Enchantments. I thought the route was super fun and definately want to go explore more up there. Only gripe is that it seemed like the bolts were super close together, there were times when I was just clipping every other one. Pulled two ticks...so far...off our clothing and stuff. Do you approach Bridge Creek Wall just like Condor Buttress, except go right instead of left near the top? Quote
Bug Posted March 30, 2009 Author Posted March 30, 2009 I don't know Condor buttress. But Bridge creek is accessible from the main road at the base of the main gulley. I just parked and started hiking straight up. BC Butt was on the left after a two hour approach. It is the biggest wall up there. Quote
JensHolsten Posted March 30, 2009 Posted March 30, 2009 Where is Dandroof???? Do I call it something else? Quote
Sol Posted March 30, 2009 Posted March 30, 2009 it's on the white fang, near non-wall. p. 150 of the newer ltown guide: 4p 5.10 "this steep climb on impeccable stone is climaxed by an airy hand crack through a roof on the last pitch" Quote
telemarker Posted March 30, 2009 Posted March 30, 2009 it's on the white fang, near non-wall. p. 150 of the newer ltown guide: 4p 5.10 "this steep climb on impeccable stone is climaxed by an airy hand crack through a roof on the last pitch" In talking to Gordon a couple years ago about this route, he likened it to kitty litter...hmmm... Quote
genepires Posted March 30, 2009 Posted March 30, 2009 the new guide in question is the 2003 version. the book calls it " steep climb on impeccable white stone is climaxed by airy hand crack through roof" It could be impeccacbly white kitty litter stone. Does kitty litter get two stars? Quote
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