New 3 pitch route at Pete's Pile

[elmo]

K-9 Shanghai (5.12a) FFA Elmo Mecsko/Reed Fee 9/2008

New 3 pitch route at Pete's Pile (Hwy 35, East of Mt. Hood in Oregon.)

Pitch 1: 100 feet - 5.11a Trad

Pitch 2: 65 feet - 5.12a Trad

Pitch 3: 80 feet - 5.10b Bolts & 2 gear placements.

 

This is a fun and exciting route with a great view of Mt Hood while you climb. It is waiting for a second ascent. Email for more info if you are curious - elmo@ecologyfund.net.

Edited November 25, 2008 by elmo

[Dirtyleaf]

well...post some pics dude

[billcoe]

well...post some pics dude

 

Ditto and Congrats Elmo. This is further down @ 50' from Dougs route Pumping for the Man?

 

BTW, if you are workin out there, you might consider drilling anchors on potential routes before the area becomes wilderness.

Edited November 25, 2008 by billcoe

[el jefe]

i think there are some pictures at mountain project website:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/oregon/petes_pile/lost_dog_wall/106228801

 

 

[elmo]

I will post pics when I get a chance (my internet is sooo slow).

Is there talk of this area becoming a Wilderness Area?

Thanks

[billcoe]

It's close to a done deal unfortunately. I believe this area is in the boundary (but perhaps not). Expect new rules and regulations next year. Obviously we all need better and closer supervision from King George on the Kings land. It's been discussed on this site, you can do a search. It will make the lawyers, the government workers (job security) and a few others happy. Not me, it's total bullshit.

 

F*uck.

[marc_leclerc]

That P2 looks sooooo fun!

[Dirtyleaf]

Sweet! Looks kickass!

[Doug_Hutchinson]

Nice! I started cleaning a route through the huge roof about ten years ago but got nauseous spinning around on my top rope below the roof which was tied off to the Ponderosas back from the top. That area is the longest and best at the Pile - always thought it should have more routes - except really cleaning those long routes well takes forever. Nice work.

 

[pink]

wow, i totally forgot about this place. kewl.

[R_Fee]

Hey Doug

Your right about it taking forever to clean those routes. I actually went so far as to attatch a wire brush to a cordless sawzall. Then as I was loading my pack with all the other needed crap I said screw that idea and brushed all that moss off the old fashioned way. It took Elmo and I two years to clean, bolt and redpoint this route. I found a fixed pin about halfway up the first pitch with a weird gold and black titainium bail biner on the first aid/cleaning ascent(yours?) All that effort paid off with a really good route. The third pitch of your route Pumping For the Man is one of my favorites at Petes. I dont know if you remember but we climbed it together back in 98 when I was just a young whippersnapper. Sadly these routes will quickly get mossy if folks dont get out and climb them. Last summer when Rick Harrel and I climbed the first picth of Pumping to retrive some booty draws he had to do a bit o nut tool gardening to find nut placements.

Reed Fee

[Doug_Hutchinson]

Hey Reed - I do remember you. Can't wait to try your new route (although I moved to Seattle a few months ago so it may be awhile).

 

The pin wasn't mine, but I do remember it. The pitches above were so dirty, I assumed they were unclimbed still and the pin was left from an early aid attempt and bail.

 

I hear you about routes getting dirty. I had climbed Pumpin' (it's officially "Pumpin' 4 the Man" after the Ween song) this summer for the first time in 3-4 years and was horrified about the return of the plant life. I raved to my partner about how classic it was and spent my lead doing nut tool gardening too, and left bummed out.

 

Actually, the whole freaking place is suffering from underuse. All the stairs, belay platforms, seats, etc. are basically fallen over.

 

The exodus that happened with the opening of Bulo and Area 51, not to mention Pete's moving and the endangered plant listing, really killed both route development and marked the end of routes staying clean. Seriously, at the rate it is going, the place will be back to pre-development in a few years.

 

The pic below illustrate what Pete's may be best for...

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 3, 2008 by Doug_Hutchinson

[Winter]

oh yeah right Doug, move to Seattle and then give up the goods.

[ivan]

what's kept me from climbing at pete's is a) it's a bit of a drive for climbing that's pretty comparable to pdx stuff b) it's snowed under for a good long while and c) i don't have any beta on the place

 

is there a list of routes/descriptions anywhere? i like climbing dirty ass aid-type things just fine

[kevbone]

Petes Pile.....a good name for that place.

[area51]

Few folks climbing at Area51 anymore either. I think the ozone took care of that.

 

Still pleny of folks at Buhlo though!

 

And the route looks killer, nice work Elmo and Reed.

 

How about some bouldering up at the house this winter Elmo?

Edited December 3, 2008 by area51

[alexbaker]

I would love to go check that route out... Need a partner.

 

Ivan we may get along. Let me know if you are lacking a partner sometime.

 

bakerjohnalex@gmail.com

 

Alex