sparverius Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Trip: Indian Summer in the Menagerie - Rooster Rock-West Face, Hen Rock-Winter Sunshine Date: 10/25/2008 Trip Report: Logan and I headed up to the Menagerie last Saturday for one last stab at summertime glory. We slept under the stars at the trailhead and didn't stir until the sun broke into the canyon at 10. The approach took just under an hour and put us at the base of Rooster Rock. We started with the "classic" west face route on Rooster. This route has some potential, but needs some gardening and a good scrubbing. Looking down from halfway up the first pitch The upper part of this pitch presented problems with a flaring chimney leading to an overhang, but redeemed itself with a nice hand crack in the moss. I pulled off large mats of the stuff and wondered about growth rates of moss, and when this route had last seen activity. I belayed Logan from a mossy ledge atop the first pitch and tried to clear the dirt and moss from my face. More awkwardness followed on the second pitch, but Logan led it elegantly. After exiting the awkwardness, a short but sweet open book led to the summit. Chicken Rock We opted to end the day with winter sunshine, a bolted route on Hen Rock's south face. Logan followed my thrashing and scratching lead, and we enjoyed a fine sunset on top and hiked down in the dark. Approach Notes: steep and sweaty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hkrhnk11 Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Nice work. I've thought about checking out the menagerie before, but always opted for something closer. The "moss" pitch looked great. I'm not sure which is worst, choss or moss. At least when your partner kicks moss down on you it doesn't knock you unconcious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 and wondered about growth rates of moss, and when this route had last seen activity that looks like about 24 hours worth of south santiam moss growth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 bitch'n (camero) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 nice work guys. Same goes for me, often opt for something closer. One of these days I will bite the bullet and head down there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 We started with the "classic" west face route on Rooster. Did that west face about 20 years ago and agree it is a neglected gem. The hand traverse is classic and longer than it looks in the photos. Sounds like your your TR may inspire more traffic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Nice job you guys. What a great weekend up there eh? We were over on north and south rabbit ear that day. Glad to see Logan finally make it out there he kept telling me he was going to. Nice send, the west face though dirty as hell protects pretty damn well for a menagerie route. Did you do Winter Sunshine to the top in one pitch? :brew: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparverius Posted November 1, 2008 Author Share Posted November 1, 2008 Yeah Tyler, it was a sweet day up there. When did you last climb the west face? Judging from the small trees and thick mats of moss in the cracks, it seems like it's been neglected for some time. We did winter sunshine in one pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Nice work guys, I'd been wondering about that route for a while now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted November 9, 2008 Share Posted November 9, 2008 sparvious, do I know you? Maybe through Logan or Tyler? This is Ian from Corvallis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparverius Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 (edited) Hey Ian, I think we met three years ago at Wolf Rock when you were climbing with Deverton. I've seen you around over the years and at some of Logan's parties. I've never climbed with Tyler, but first started climbing in Oregon with skyclimb a while ago, who you may have climbed with. If you're still in corvallis, I'm always looking for new climbing partners. Jason Edited November 10, 2008 by sparverius Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Ohh yea! I do remember now. I have some pictures of you guys climbing at wolf from that day. I will try to remember to post them when I get home. (in AZ right now) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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