[TR] Indian Summer in the Menagerie - Rooster Rock-West Face, Hen Rock-Winter Sunshine 10/25/2008

[sparverius]

Trip: Indian Summer in the Menagerie - Rooster Rock-West Face, Hen Rock-Winter Sunshine

 

Date: 10/25/2008

 

Trip Report:

Logan and I headed up to the Menagerie last Saturday for one last stab at summertime glory. We slept under the stars at the trailhead and didn't stir until the sun broke into the canyon at 10. The approach took just under an hour and put us at the base of Rooster Rock.

 

 

We started with the "classic" west face route on Rooster. This route has some potential, but needs some gardening and a good scrubbing.

 

Looking down from halfway up the first pitch

 

 

The upper part of this pitch presented problems with a flaring chimney leading to an overhang, but redeemed itself with a nice hand crack in the moss. I pulled off large mats of the stuff and wondered about growth rates of moss, and when this route had last seen activity.

 

 

I belayed Logan from a mossy ledge atop the first pitch and tried to clear the dirt and moss from my face.

 

More awkwardness followed on the second pitch, but Logan led it elegantly.

 

 

 

 

After exiting the awkwardness, a short but sweet open book led to the summit.

 

 

Chicken Rock

 

We opted to end the day with winter sunshine, a bolted route on Hen Rock's south face. Logan followed my thrashing and scratching lead, and we enjoyed a fine sunset on top and hiked down in the dark.

 

 

 

Approach Notes:

steep and sweaty

[hkrhnk11]

Nice work. I've thought about checking out the menagerie before, but always opted for something closer.

 

The "moss" pitch looked great. I'm not sure which is worst, choss or moss. At least when your partner kicks moss down on you it doesn't knock you unconcious.

[iain]

 

and wondered about growth rates of moss, and when this route had last seen activity

 

that looks like about 24 hours worth of south santiam moss growth

[ivan]

bitch'n (camero)

[letsroll]

nice work guys. Same goes for me, often opt for something closer. One of these days I will bite the bullet and head down there.

[curtveld]

We started with the "classic" west face route on Rooster.

 

 

Did that west face about 20 years ago and agree it is a neglected gem. The hand traverse is classic and longer than it looks in the photos. Sounds like your your TR may inspire more traffic!

[corvallisclimb]

Nice job you guys. What a great weekend up there eh? We were over on north and south rabbit ear that day. Glad to see Logan finally make it out there he kept telling me he was going to. Nice send, the west face though dirty as hell protects pretty damn well for a menagerie route. Did you do Winter Sunshine to the top in one pitch? :brew:

 

[sparverius]

Yeah Tyler, it was a sweet day up there. When did you last climb the west face? Judging from the small trees and thick mats of moss in the cracks, it seems like it's been neglected for some time.

We did winter sunshine in one pitch.

[sweatinoutliquor]

Nice work guys, I'd been wondering about that route for a while now.

[111]

sparvious, do I know you? Maybe through Logan or Tyler? This is Ian from Corvallis

[sparverius]

Hey Ian, I think we met three years ago at Wolf Rock when you were climbing with Deverton. I've seen you around over the years and at some of Logan's parties. I've never climbed with Tyler, but first started climbing in Oregon with skyclimb a while ago, who you may have climbed with. If you're still in corvallis, I'm always looking for new climbing partners.

Jason

Edited November 10, 2008 by sparverius

[111]

Ohh yea! I do remember now. I have some pictures of you guys climbing at wolf from that day. I will try to remember to post them when I get home. (in AZ right now)