The Rest

[David Trippett]

A recent ascent of a route in Squamish got me thinking about how important rests are in climbing, particularly on-sight traditional climbing. Rests allow one to recover and assess the terrain ahead.

 

This is all rather obvious perhaps, but in a sport dominated by talk of power endurance and "getting stronger" etc...the rest is often central to on-sighting for those of us that are not mutants.

 

Finding creative rests has been key to so many of my favorite on-sight battles. I think a lot of what has made my climbing improve is my ability to find a few marginal rests on climbs at my limit and milk them until I can continue on. The rest is as important as any other part of the technicians bag of tricks.

 

God knows there are few out there better at "resting" than trad climbers

 

You guys have any stories of creative rests you've seen or done through the years?

 

 

 

[Blake]

On Horrors of Ivan at Murrin Park in Squamish, i made it to the 1/2way cave totally pumped, with more overhanging climbing to go. I couldn't find a way to take my hands off the rock until I worked out a way to stick my head into the little cave alcove and press it up against the roof. Only then could I actually let go of the rock and rest my arms. Not only did this weird-looking pose provide my climbing partners with a laugh, but it let me de-pump and eventually extricate my noggin from the jam and finish the remainder of the climb.

 

I'd say the all-time best rest (although not too creative because this is a well-known route feature) is on the route "1080 and the Letter G" at Payne's ford New Zealand. After pulling an .11c roof, you can stick both feet into an enormous limestone pocket and hang upside down in a hands-free rest.

 

[Wakaranai]

HA HA, now thats using your head Blake. Sure did work well though.

 

One of the coolest(craziest)rests was Dan Osmond at cave rock, upside down, knee bar, no handed, free solo.

 

The top pitch of right wing has a unique rest. After the offwidth undercling thingy you throw a leg over, pull on top and then milk the full on horsey straddle rest before finishing the rest of the offwidth.

-Brandon

[G-spotter]

 

You guys have any stories of creative rests you've seen or done through the years?

 

 

 

I once saw an elderly climber employing a fifi hook on a sport route to enjoy a no-hands rest on every bolt

[Cairns]

A recent ascent of a route in Squamish got me thinking about how important rests are in climbing, particularly on-sight traditional climbing. Rests allow one to recover and assess the terrain ahead.

 

This is all rather obvious perhaps,

 

 

 

 

It may be obvious that resting is helpful but it can be hard to do when needed most, on sustained strenuous sections.

 

Something akin to the "mental vacation" can work, even in the absence of a rest stance. Just take about 2-3 breaths' worth to pause and relax a little. Applies to sport also. User retains creative control, just please don't whistle a merry tune. That's mine.

 

Assessing the terrain ahead can be a mistake unless you are considering bailing. Stay tuned to the terrain you are on.

[David Trippett]

Assessing the terrain ahead can be a mistake unless you are considering bailing. Stay tuned to the terrain you are on.

 

It must be interesting to watch you climb. Very Zen.

 

For me, I don't think I'd make my way up much without the ability to read a route.

 

[billcoe]

I totally agree with your first post David. I think you'll find it even more true as you get older:-)

 

I sure do.

[sexual_chocolate]

Assessing the terrain ahead can be a mistake unless you are considering bailing. Stay tuned to the terrain you are on.

 

 

i think assessing the terrain ahead is kinda mandatory when sequences must be developed. "left hand must go here so right hand can go there" type of stuff.

 

yeah pay attention to the now, but also develop an approach to what's coming up.

[A2THEK]

Rests sure can be key if you can collect yourself, yer head & yer mind before moving quickly & smoothly through the crux,I'm always up for a good rest.

[Drederek]

All good stuff! When Olympia was between climbing gyms we used to stay in shape during the winter climbing on the small woodie in my partners garage. It'd eventually come down to an add on game and we would find every possible rest to stretch it out. I wore a hole in a pair of shoes from my favorite rest spot one winter. As the years go by we seem to be relying more and more on smoke and mirrors and less on athletic ability.

[Cairns]

Assessing the terrain ahead can be a mistake unless you are considering bailing. Stay tuned to the terrain you are on.

 

 

i think assessing the terrain ahead is kinda mandatory when sequences must be developed. "left hand must go here so right hand can go there" type of stuff.

 

yeah pay attention to the now, but also develop an approach to what's coming up.

 

 

I'll correct myself, too.

 

Assessing the terrain ahead can be a mistake for me, because my brain can only retain about 1-2 planned moves. The strenuous sustained sections I didn't specify were laybacks and hand cracks where left hand or right hand is hard to tell from below.

 

Zen I don't know from a hole in the ground but much of my climbing is from a look-up table in my long-term memory. No calculation needed so it works fast. Speaking of holes, though, it has a few.

[Rad]

Exotic rests are cool, but I find that 90% of the time my best rests involve a STEM and/or a BACKSTEP.

 

Somewhat less useful rests involve creative use of a large handhold: wrap thumb over top and release fingers, wrap arm/elbow over top, or just swap hands in a straight arm hang.

 

 

[marc_leclerc]

this doesnt really count cuz it was inside but once in a comp I didnt want to dyno to the last hold at the lip of a roof so I turned around, touble toe hooked it and hung from my toes while I clipped the anchors. Another cool rest is on a crack climb called Wayback Layback, you layback a finger crack until a wide section, double foot jam and balance with your nose against the near vertical rock while you rest, chalk up, and prepare for the bold and commiting finishing crux.

[jmace]

Ok Cairns

 

so I need to get Zen, maybe whistle and a few breaths...what about if I add 4 pairs of wool socks..would that get me to your level ?

[carolyn]

Exotic rests are cool, but I find that 90% of the time my best rests involve a STEM and/or a BACKSTEP.

 

Somewhat less useful rests involve creative use of a large handhold: wrap thumb over top and release fingers, wrap arm/elbow over top, or just swap hands in a straight arm hang.

 

 

I agree those are all good ways to go. I use them often

If its something I can put my thumb on to rest, then I can usually put the side of my hand on instead (pinky side). I choose that option more often because it feels like a better rest on all the digits.

 

Heel hooking whenever possible is always good as well.

 

I never realized the importance of resting until someone drilled it in my head. A few times out climbing with the focus of the day being to find rests at every point possible has made it much more natural.

[Cairns]

Ok Cairns

 

so I need to get Zen, maybe whistle and a few breaths...what about if I add 4 pairs of wool socks..would that get me to your level ?

 

My level of The Rest, maybe, but only we night shift truly know how to zone out.

[moronbros]

One good habit I've picked up is to put gear in when at rests - not on some flaky tough section where you're going to get flamed trying every stopper on your rack.

 

If you climb toward rests where you will be putting gear in, it gives you something to look forward to and you can concentrate on the climbing.

 

Of course, not all the rests are the best places to put gear in, but you get the idea.