Helmets for cragging - likes & dislikes

[max]

It's not that complicated:

 

Buy a helmet. Wear it.

 

Anything more is like discussiong what kind of seat belt to install in your car.

 

 

[JosephH]

Ryan, thanks for finding that info...

 

It's not that complicated:

 

Buy a helmet. Wear it.

 

Anything more is like discussiong what kind of seat belt to install in your car.

 

It's actually considerably more complicated than that.

 

Now that I take a look at it, the Metolius SafeTech Helmet looks like it will be replacing the Petzl Ecrin Rock once it's available.

 

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/catalog_2008.pdf

[motomagik]

Hey Off,

 

Have you thought about the Petzl Elios? http://www.backcountry.com/store/PTZ0203/Petzl-Elios-Helmet.html

 

 

It's lighter than the Ecrin and less bulky, but definitely more durable than the "foam jobbies". I've beat mine up pretty good, sat on it, and stuffed it in the pack among a bunch of sharp pointy things, and it's still going. If you're looking for one for cragging, who cares how much it weighs?

 

Another vote for the Elios, I really like mine. I don't even notice I'm wearing it and it's super durable.

[NateF]

It's not that complicated:

 

Buy a helmet. Wear it.

 

Anything more is like discussiong what kind of seat belt to install in your car.

 

yeah! uhhhhm, which one should I buy? they're all different.

[hafilax]

It's not that complicated:

 

Buy a helmet. Wear it.

 

Anything more is like discussiong what kind of seat belt to install in your car.

 

Stick with your lap belt. I'll take the 3 point and an airbag.

[Off_White]

Anything more is like discussiong what kind of seat belt to install in your car.

 

Gotta love the swagger, but do you honestly believe people don't passionately argue about that very subject? To be is to disagree, it's a human condition kind of thing.

 

Great input folks, thanks.

[MattStan]

If a cragging fall is your concern, then the so-called softshell is the way to go. I have a BD Tracer for cragging and can honestly say I don't even notice it on while climbing.

 

One thing to note when selecting a helmet is the difference between CE and UIAA certification. Both organizations test the same, but their standards differ, with the UIAA being the more stringent. It's been a few years since I examined a range of helmets, but back in 2004 or so, there were at least a few Euro helmets on the market that didn't sport UIAA cert. Both the Tracer and the Meteor III pass UIAA.

 

It's also interesting to note that they haven't yet mandated a test for impact in a fall. They test vertical and perimeter impact with a 5kg weight, measuring the force transmitted, but that really doesn't equate at all.

 

In all the years I've been climbing with my father, he's only ever climbed one route sans lid. He's been cragging for over 45 years and is the coolest climber I know. If he sees the sense in wearing a helmet, everyone should -- 'nuff said.

[Choada_Boy]

A Cautionary Tale

 

Make sure you get a helmet you can't rip apart with your bare hands.

[billcoe]

Despite the fact that I subscribe to the Royal Robbins school of thought that it's what is inside of your head that keeps you safe, and not whats on it when you are cragging. For rockfall areas (or beer bottle fall zones like Rocky Butte) , I recently bought 2 Skateboarding helmets for like $14 each. Like em, fit great and are soooo comfortable! As they are designed to take a side or back slam, that's good I think. The shit I was knocking off yesterday would have squished any kind of helmet and killed ya anyway, not having a helmet makes you super-sensitive to that fact, and you consciously do traverses and belay from alcoves and overhands etc etc. Having a helmet can and often does subconsciously make some folks feel that they have that covered -so they are not seeking out natural shelters: when they are so totally fucked anyway if a big rock hits them.

 

 

Additional- this is the kind of cool knarly schwag which can give you big cred with the kids as you do big airs. This is the 2nd time this am I've used that word. Hmmm.

 

I do have a Petzl Elios too, it's OK, but nothing to write home about.