Leavenworth circuit...

[NoahT]

I could use some local's help on getting around leavnworth. I don't frequent the area as much because I feel like the concentration of climbs I'm looking for at any one cliff is a bit lacking. You kinda have to move the car a couple times throughout the day, and then I find myself staring at the guidebook WAY to much...or maybe I'm just retarded--I'm open to that possibility, too.

 

If you were headed out, what would your list look like for a 6-8 pitch day of trad in the .10-.11 range. They could be 5-star classics, or totally obscure. I'm just trying to avoid reinventing the wheel here...

 

Thanks all.

 

N

 

[lancegranite]

Midnight rock.

[NoahT]

Thanks lance, got that one marked down...what else...?

[DirtyHarry]

The best crag in 11worth is a bit further down Highway 2 at a place called Index.

[Drederek]

For 10's-11's DH is right. For Leavenworth trad you need to expand your range downward to 8's - 10's or add in bolted routes.

[wayne]

Not too trad, but the Clems Holler region is awesome climbing.

[ScottP]

[Sol]

Hyperspace

 

Go to lower 8 mile buttress

Climb Mr. Tremendous 2p 10b

Radio Sex 11b

Lazy Boy 11c

On way back to the car stop at small world buttress

Climb Haul World 11c

Warm down on the 5.9

Or climb the 5.12 thin crack

and the other 5.12 face

 

 

Climb every route on jello tower

[NoahT]

Ya DH, we're on the same page--index is the shite--thus l-worth usually gets no love.

 

Thanks for the topo Scott--as heinous as the pressure chamber sounds, it has somehow been surviving at the bottom of the list.

 

Right on Sol, that's the kinda thing I was looking for.

 

 

[pope]

2 laps on Castle include some entertaining 5.10 without moving the car or hiking far.

 

Lap 1: Smut, the Bone, Damnation, Midway Direct.

 

Lap 2: Mr. Clean, Brass Balls, The Nose, Midway Direct Direct (or whatever the name of that run-out Jim Nelson route is).

 

Throw in M.F. Direct on one of these laps if you're not getting worked.

[eric8]

J.Y crag has a few nice 10's you could easily work into Sol's circuit.

 

Condo Corner, A swingin Affair, Exotic Dancer, Pumpline, and the regular route at Careno.

[DirtyHarry]

Careno Crag is good, like the man said. Regular Route and Bale-Kramer and Pumpline. Also try the neglected classic Orange Peel. Another overlooked crag is Rat Creek Dome. Do a route there called The Cheese.

[Jopa]

Pearly Gates has plenty of climbs in that range. If you expand your range to the lowly realm of 5.9 you could easily get in 10 excellent pitches in a day without having to change crags.

[NoahT]

Nice!

 

For an infrequent l-worther, this will save like two summers of "investigation." For a day of cragging, I want some instant gratification. Nail some good ones, and go to school on some harder ones...

 

Save the expedition/adventure stuff for the big routes.