NoahT Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 I could use some local's help on getting around leavnworth. I don't frequent the area as much because I feel like the concentration of climbs I'm looking for at any one cliff is a bit lacking. You kinda have to move the car a couple times throughout the day, and then I find myself staring at the guidebook WAY to much...or maybe I'm just retarded--I'm open to that possibility, too. If you were headed out, what would your list look like for a 6-8 pitch day of trad in the .10-.11 range. They could be 5-star classics, or totally obscure. I'm just trying to avoid reinventing the wheel here... Thanks all. N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Midnight rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahT Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 Thanks lance, got that one marked down...what else...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 The best crag in 11worth is a bit further down Highway 2 at a place called Index. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 For 10's-11's DH is right. For Leavenworth trad you need to expand your range downward to 8's - 10's or add in bolted routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Not too trad, but the Clems Holler region is awesome climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Hyperspace Go to lower 8 mile buttress Climb Mr. Tremendous 2p 10b Radio Sex 11b Lazy Boy 11c On way back to the car stop at small world buttress Climb Haul World 11c Warm down on the 5.9 Or climb the 5.12 thin crack and the other 5.12 face Climb every route on jello tower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahT Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 Ya DH, we're on the same page--index is the shite--thus l-worth usually gets no love. Thanks for the topo Scott--as heinous as the pressure chamber sounds, it has somehow been surviving at the bottom of the list. Right on Sol, that's the kinda thing I was looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 2 laps on Castle include some entertaining 5.10 without moving the car or hiking far. Lap 1: Smut, the Bone, Damnation, Midway Direct. Lap 2: Mr. Clean, Brass Balls, The Nose, Midway Direct Direct (or whatever the name of that run-out Jim Nelson route is). Throw in M.F. Direct on one of these laps if you're not getting worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 J.Y crag has a few nice 10's you could easily work into Sol's circuit. Condo Corner, A swingin Affair, Exotic Dancer, Pumpline, and the regular route at Careno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Careno Crag is good, like the man said. Regular Route and Bale-Kramer and Pumpline. Also try the neglected classic Orange Peel. Another overlooked crag is Rat Creek Dome. Do a route there called The Cheese. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopa Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Pearly Gates has plenty of climbs in that range. If you expand your range to the lowly realm of 5.9 you could easily get in 10 excellent pitches in a day without having to change crags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahT Posted June 5, 2008 Author Share Posted June 5, 2008 Nice! For an infrequent l-worther, this will save like two summers of "investigation." For a day of cragging, I want some instant gratification. Nail some good ones, and go to school on some harder ones... Save the expedition/adventure stuff for the big routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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