Sherri Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 anyone know of a place to find a more detailed topo for it than the ones in Kramer's book? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Older versions of Kramar's book provide more detail. For Midway, I have a topo that shows the original line which is not indicated in guidebooks but is the better way to go and the line that many parties take inadvertently. pdf file Some readers may note that I probably overstate the fear factor for Midway Direct, but I don't think it is a beginner's lead whereas Midway is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Posted May 7, 2008 Author Share Posted May 7, 2008 That's a nice one of Midway, Matt. Better than the wavy lines drawn up the low-res photos in the current Kramer book. BTW, I prefer taking the "variation" line in your Midway topo. I like how it avoids the rope drag of going under that first roof. Yeah, it's a sacrifice to miss the chimney section that comes afterward, but the the extra exposure of MD and neat traverse back onto Midway proper at the old piton ring are a good trade off. Did you draw up that topo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Not Castle Rock, but... does anyone have a topo of Champaign up on Snow Creek wall? Or can point me to a book that does - something better than what is in "Leavenworth Rock"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 (edited) Fun route, just did it for the first time the other day. A 60 meter rope just makes it to the top in one 'as long as they get pitch'. Belay from the base of the first pitch,* climb the variation, and use a lot of two foot slings on the upper half. Edited May 7, 2008 by lancegranite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Yes, I drew the topo for Midway. Champaign could use a good topo. It is a popular route and lots of folks are confused by where to go. I drew a topo for Mary Jane that is posted on cc.com, and it needs a little refinement but J believe could be useful for someone looking for an alternative to Outer Space and Orbit. link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Not Castle Rock, but... does anyone have a topo of Champaign up on Snow Creek wall? Or can point me to a book that does - something better than what is in "Leavenworth Rock"? The approach gulley throws a lot of people. You will want to rope up for it. Start at the tree in the notch and follow the narrow ramp to the bolt. Then go straight up through the "obvious" cracks and chimneys. AplineFox and I did it a few years ago and finished with a traverse of the ridge to the top of OuterSpace. That was fun too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 if you rope up in the gully for the 5.8ish chimney block move be very careful of draggin your rope up gully and not knocking loose a death block onto your belayer. The dihedral above Easter Tower trends up and then veer left to the bolt by the roof. Easy cracks surmount the roof to "bubble land" and a shorter lead up to and obvious Ledge. At the ledge a prominent 5.6 chimney leads past a tree. Other harder options are to the left and right of chimney. The last pitch to ridge crest is pick your own poison...rambley not very memorable climbing. The ridge traverse is stellar and as BUG implies brings you to the top of outerspace. Specifically it brings you to the end of the ridge and one must rapel to the ground. One short rap. Then you have to hike over "eastish" towards outerspace to reach the end boulder of outerspace (should be obvious). I do highly recommend Champaign but I do not recommend it to someone not familiar with Mountain Climbing. Not your standard "Outerspace or Orbit" affair. Plan for a long day if unfamiliar with the ridge traverse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armin Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Someone described Champaigne in detail on this website and I think it was Catbirdseed. You might want to look in trip reports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Someone described Champaigne in detail on this website and I think it was Catbirdseed. You might want to look in trip reports. i did a search on "champagne" and didn't see it, but then again it's easy to misspell, so who knows (i keeping wanting to write 'champaign'). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armin Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 It is actually called Champagne (at least in this TR) and here's the link: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=499928 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 It is actually called Champagne (at least in this TR) and here's the link: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=499928 I too am bored at work so here is another: CLICK ME for Original CBS request and TR and this is funny about chickenheads,etc. BTW differential erosion is the answer to why any chickenhead sticks out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 so you got some differential erosion happening around your shoulders then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 and this is funny about chickenheads,etc. BTW differential erosion is the answer to why any chickenhead sticks out HTF did I miss this razor-sharp exchange (b/w Mark and Dru) of witty banter? Hilarious, yet informative (sorta). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Posted May 7, 2008 Author Share Posted May 7, 2008 and this is funny about chickenheads,etc. BTW differential erosion is the answer to why any chickenhead sticks out HTF did I miss this razor-sharp exchange (b/w Mark and Dru) of witty banter? Hilarious, yet informative (sorta). They lotht me at "mafic batholiths." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 so you got some differential erosion happening around your shoulders then? touche! now that is funny, did not see that one coming... I guess it takes ONE to know ONE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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