Favorite Desert Climbs

[layton]

What are your favorite desert climbs: trad, sport, towers, you name it?

 

[scheissami]

Fine Jade on the Rectory, North Chimney on Castleton, Ancient Art (of course)....

[G-spotter]

Orchard Rock at Peshastin

[marcus]

'Sundevil Chimney' on the Titan

[fgw]

of the larger towers:

Washer Woman, In Search Of Suds

Priest, Honeymoon Chimney

Rectory, Fine Jade

The Mace (sedona)

Oak Creek Spire (sedona; for the jump across pitch)

Sheep Rock, Virgin Wool (aid)

 

smaller towers:

Lighthouse, Lonely Vigil

3 Penguins, Right Chimney

 

(photo not my own hyperlinked from MP)

Edited March 31, 2008 by fgw

[powderhound]

My favorites so far:

Honeymoon Chimney, I think it has some of the best rock in the castle valley.

 

The Hindu: is sick

 

Red Rocks- The cloud Tower(best multi pitch crack climb there)

Fiddler on the roof- one of the most amazing trad protected face climbs I have ever been on

Edited March 31, 2008 by powderhound

[fgw]

for Red Rocks, the 5P La Cierta Edad has gone to near the top of my list; short-ish but great.

[mneagle]

Canyonlands: Monster Tower

 

Moab area: all of the above but I still think Sister Superior is the finest of the bunch (haven't done Honeymoon Chimney, though)

 

Sister Superior 10c:

[fgw]

your favorite desert climbs: trad, sport, towers, you name it

 

once you mentioned towers, things focused on sandstone routes. Fun multi-pitch granite climbing can be had in Cochise Stronghold of SE AZ. Stuff that we've done & liked down there includes Warpaint (5P, 10c slab), Absinthe of Mallet (6P 5.9+), Peacemaker (6P 10- slab), great routes on Rockfellow Domes (have not done). Good online beta available. Much nesting closures this time of year though. Sorry if this is outside of what you were asking about Mike.

[fgw]

Another obvious tower would be the N. Six Shooter, Lightning Bolt Cracks.

[mountainmatt]

Otto's route on the Monument. The last pitch to the top is fantastic!

 

 

[OldManRock]

Gracias Mi Amor in El Petrero Chico - Its only 5.7 but its my age

backward, so it was sweet.

[pink]

so this thread has had to been done before, did you use your handy dandy search option mr. dr. layton.

[cheamclimber]

Air Swedin and Belly full of Bad Berries in Indian creek both look cool but are well beyond my abilities, I would like to try them some day though... I agree that Lighning Bolt Cracks on North Six Shooter looks amazing.. UI think Renan Ozturk onsight free solos it in Return2Sender...

 

 

 

[goatboy]

Pink,

 

Sounds like you're the one that's not sure if this thread has been done before...did YOU use the "handy dandy search option?"

 

That's a rhetorical question, so you don't need to write something inane in response, unless you can't help yourself...

[dberdinka]

Another vote for Honeymoon Chimney. That route has crazy geometry!

[fgw]

Another vote for Honeymoon Chimney. That route has crazy geometry!

 

& the Priest is a real proud looking tower too!

(crux pitch climbs the notch at 5.11 or A0)

 

[fgw]

spectacular Fine Jade:

[mneagle]

This would be the biggest at any rate:

 

Link

 

[wayne]

Geez nice photo

[pink]

nice photo, good stokie.

 

thanks

[plexus]

Another obvious tower would be the N. Six Shooter, Lightning Bolt Cracks.

 

I'll be looking at it when I wake up Saturday morning. Too bad my trip is only a solo backpacking journey.

[plexus]

 

And this is just gorgeous.

[layton]

Cool!

 

Yeah, I'm talking anything - not just towers! But towers are way cool. Anyone done Notch Peak's big ol' limestone wall (like book of saturdays)?

[denalidave]

Another obvious tower would be the N. Six Shooter, Lightning Bolt Cracks.

 

I'll be looking at it when I wake up Saturday morning. Too bad my trip is only a solo backpacking journey.

Poor thing, life is rough... Have fun!