lancegranite Posted February 29, 2008 Author Share Posted February 29, 2008 Yeah, I was kinda hoping for something like: "The one on the left is 11b, the one on the right is 11d" At that point I thank the nice person and everyone can get on with life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 it's also "funny" that everyone here seems to assume this meaningless little route was soloed in the past, although i'm sure no one knows who this mythical soloist was. the "solo ascent" is presumed to have occurred because it bolsters an otherwise specious argument. actually, i soloed the route last fall, onsite. first go was so fun i got on it again later in the day. kinda sketchy cuz the sun had come out, and the slopey holds up high were a wee bit different. i said whew when i topped out. i also think the bolts might as well stay. but if you all want to rant about a bolt job, go remove bolts from angora grotto in index, or cunning stunt (if it's been bolted again). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 We're talking about a face climb that was for decades a nice little top-rope problem, probably climbed on lead and free-soloed an uncountable number of times. By this logic, all climbs of the notorious 10d Squamish offwidth "Pumpline" are in bad style, because the FA was a Free Solo, and now nobody is "respecting the style of the FA". it's Pipeline. Pumpline is in Leavenworth. And it was the FFA that was the freesolo. The FA was on aid, with sawed off pipe chunks as bongs - hence the name. WRONG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 funny "haha" or funny "strange"? yes, it is pretty funny the way some of the people on this website twist every forum into a tiresome antibolting tirade... it's also "funny" that everyone here seems to assume this meaningless little route was soloed in the past, although i'm sure no one knows who this mythical soloist was. the "solo ascent" is presumed to have occurred because it bolsters an otherwise specious argument. Well, it didn't take long to find somebody who's free-soloed it. And as I've asserted, I'm sure Coco can add his name to a long list of those who have. The "meaningless little route" in question was a long-standing top-rope problem. With bolts, I suppose it remains a "meaningless little route"...now it's just ugly. And it exists on a highly visible cliff with great top-rope access, a cliff previously untainted by such garbage. Just a couple of questions. Why bother bolting this "meaningless little route"? I suggest that the result is hardly worth the effort, but that the mess created (as many view it) is something we'd be better off without. Those of you who think clipping a few bolts adds tremendous adventure to this top-rope problem....Oh my goodness! You just don't know the meaning of the word "adventure". Finally, for those who want to get the feeling of "leading" that sport climbing gives you instead of top-roping short climbs like this, try top-roping with...oh, maybe about 4-1/2 feet of slack in the rope. That should give you an equal rectal pucker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 This is the 4th worst thread this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 actually, i have to confess that i'm impressed by the good manners of some of the folks who post here. for example, it was very generous of lancegranite to rate this thread as only the fourth worst his week, just as it was very generous of blake to use the word "logic" when referring to pope's inane blather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 This is the 4th worst thread this week. The suspense is kil'n me... the top 3 worst were? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 (edited) Actually the route in question, Hindquarters, can be lead on gear. If I remember a red bd and some small gear, good stuff but a bit exciting. Edited March 3, 2008 by TimL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 (edited) What's the score on the bolted routes next to La Cucaracha and Madsen's chimney? They look good, but documentation is lacking. I know, I know. was not me or anyone I know who did said route to right of Madsen's chimney but I remember the guy at the bar telling Erik and I how rad it was and how he was bolting it on lead and I think 10ish grade oh and he said he wanted to beat up Erik or something like that. I am not sure if there is more than one line. Call Viktor Kramar and ask him. You both (i think) live in same town. He ususally is up to speed on most new activity. edit- timL is right, the hindquarters route can be lead with gear only. was done this way prior to bolt job. either way, the bolts are there like many short climbs with gear potential. you do not have to clip them. however, I agree that it sucks the bolts are there. kind of like the rap bolts left on the summit headwall of Prusik by some out of towners. Edited March 4, 2008 by bwrts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 It seems like this is no longer the in fashion way, but I'm all for mixed routes when needed. I seem to remeber doing several in LW. I think it's great to climb a route mostly on gear then clip a bolt if there is reasonably nothing. I think Hindquarters could go this was. What bolts are on Prussik? Seems to me I've heard of people adding routes to Prussik over the years, but does anybody have a current topo of trhe routes that are on Prussik? The new ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 no new topo that I know of...I have some information regarding some of the routes tho. I think JosephH has info regarding the route up on Prusik climbed by Metolius team or maybe it was that Dave fellow from Spokomtom I am remembering.... anyrate, I agree mixed climbing is way more Kosher then Drilling an entire bolt line to facilitate a new climb. Especially when that TCU or RP fits just fine. If said new route has rotten rock that takes gear and one feels like the gear is not safe for their new route then maybe one should realize they are wading into deep water they should not go into and leave the line for some other person to climb sans bolts. okay, carry on. and as another climber once said, the universe is mostly dark matter! so Drink fight & spew blood! imagine this is red not greenishpuke color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhead Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 left route is 11d (all bolts), right is 12b-ish (bolts with ?-able placements) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 I watched the "Metolius Team" do some rehearsal on the Prussik route and was neither impressed by the level of skill/fitness and the style the route was done. (although it is a mute point as I am fat right now) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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