Home gym angle?

[111]

I am building a home gym and was wondering what a good angle for each wall is. I will be building 2 walls, and would like one to be a mellow wall and another to be the training wall. I would like the training wall to be difficult, but not bad enough that it is too much for a mid .11 climber (me). What angles have worked for you?

[Skatan]

I have built 2 home walls, the first one was an adjustable angle wall and worked out really good. That way I could adjust for crimp and sloper problems. That wall was a single in a garage, I moved so now I have a cave set up in a barn type shed, with a mix of vert, 60 deg, overhanging and vert with 70 deg at top all stationary. I like the adjustable the best, I couldn't do an adjustable with the ceiling height in the shed. Either way it is like having your own private boulder.

Have fun.

Plastic to the people!

 

Edited February 18, 2008 by Skatan

[RuMR]

don't bother with vertical...complete waste of space...

[sweatinoutliquor]

Hey 311,

 

I'd recommend vertical + 10-15 degrees overhung, or make one of those adjustable ones if your really savvy. Like RuMR says, vertical won't get you a workout, and too vertical and you will be spending all sorts of money buying holds that are appropriate for that type of wall (which seem to be larger and more $$). I think on the one I'm working on now I'm going to shoot for an angle that's somewhere between the two flat bouldering walls at the OSU gym in the corner by the cave. Good luck man! It's fun to have one at home for sure, especially if you can make it tall enough to string 5 or 6 moves together.

 

 

[sexual_chocolate]

overhang it 45 to 60 degrees. core strength.

[NTM]

20-45 is my fav.

[111]

Thanks! I'll post some pictures when I get it all set up and going.

[ken4ord]

Mine is adjustable, but most of the time I either have it set around 15 degrees overhang or around 45 degrees. Vertical is too easy especially for a bouldering wall if you have a tall enough wall then it is ok. My friend built a 32 foot tall wall it was vertical and that was fine.

 

Now that I have my wall I never want to go without having one.

[skyclimb]

Wazup Ian! Congrats on the house. When I was out on the crooked river ranch, living with Chris, we had a cave. There were a few walls that were vertical, which helped for smith, and the holds were cheap, cause they are tiny, but most of the stuff was 10-45 degrees overhanging. The most overhanging stuff was made arete style, so you could heel hook up/slap which help with core strength primarily, while on the 10 degree shit, grip strength seemed to really get worked. Go see Chris, as he pretty much built the place, and it is probably amazing by now.

Cheers

[Maxtrax]

I would go for a 20 degree and a 50 degree overhand, that seems to work really well. Skip vertical. If you want techy routes do 'em on the 20 deg. overhang, for core strength the 50 deg will whip your ass into shape.

[Jens]

135 degree wall for most of your space and 90% of your time and holds.

 

I also liked throwing up one small vertical wall (admitedly boring) though for tech training for smith and index sport routes to go with your 135.

[111]

Here is the completed cave. The ceiling is only 10.5 ft, but it still is a pretty good workout with a 30 degree wall and a smaller 15 degree wall. The ceiling is going to be expanded back quite a bit eventually, but this will do for now

[sweatinoutliquor]

Way to go dude! That looks awesome! :tup:

[111]

come by and check it out some time! I will be gone from now till mid july, but after that I'll get ahold of ya.

[sweatinoutliquor]

Right on dude, I'd like that. Always looking for ways to make the next one better!

[ken4ord]

Hell yeah that looks good. I cant wait to build the new wall, right now I just took down my current wall for our move. I think the next one will be inside since about 75% of the year is monsoon season, also I think it will be way too humid and hot for outdoor climbing.

 

Hey RumR, what did you get the wee ones started on? I agree for myself vert is waste, but the little one is interested but can't get on the overhanging stuff, yet. Also if I set some easier section the wife may be more interested than she has been. Suggestions?

[marc_leclerc]

60 degree overhangs are the best walls in the world! good work out, challenging routes, builds core strength and is much longer than a vertical wall.

[111]

so the next question now, is what shape to build a modular wall attachment? I'd like to add a large feature to bolt holds on to change the angles of the wall a bit. something like this or this. I'd like to know if any of you have created/climbed on modulars like these and what shape was good for climbing on. Just looking for ideas and tips before I start building it.

 

 

And, for the Corvallis folks around, we are climbing in the cave most Tuesday evenings and I'd like to extend the invitation to all y'all to come and climb!

[111]

and how was this never created when the round of photoshopping my wife happened?!?!

 

 

 

[Jamesstephan1]

Hey all, I need to build small portion in my home related to home gym equipment. As I am a newbie, started some intermediate exercises in my home. However, I want to have proper gym fitness equipment in my collection. I recently bought some used equipment like 10 pound rubber plates and some adjustable dumbbells. what other things do you recommend.