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Posted

Does anyone know how to prevent new calluses from cracking on a climbing trip? I had this problem in both Yosemite and my recent trip to Joshua Tree. (see trip report)

 

cracked_fingers.jpg

 

On both trips, I was fine for the first week, but then I began to see hairline cracks in my tips, which soon turned into 3 millimeter deep bloody canyons, very painful.

 

None of my partners had the problem, which confuses me. I avoid salt, and don't eat a lot of meat. I'm wondering if I need to load up on olive oil, or lots of fatty beef. Once they came in, I couldn't climb slab anymore, had to stay on cracks. I tried various salves but nothing fixed the problem. Now that I've been home for a couple days, they're all healed over and fine...bad timing.

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Posted

Happens to me at the beginning of the season but then they build up scar up and actually begin to protect. Maybe your friends had already past that point while you were only approaching it? Get back on the rock and see if it happens to your new scarred up man-hands! Also, had a thought that it might be related to hydration. Anyways, that's my $0.02

Posted
Super glue

 

Ya, my wife and I spent a month in JT in 1991 and had horrible tips, had to superglue/file/tape to keep our sanity. its crude but good in a pinch.

Posted
Does anyone know how to prevent new calluses from cracking on a climbing trip?

None of my partners had the problem, which confuses me. I avoid salt, and don't eat a lot of meat.

 

 

It might help to get more or different protein in your diet. Skin is by far the major user of protein in your body.

 

From your picture it looks like you burned your tips picking something hot off the stove. Damaged fingertips are the rule for a stay of any length in JT but you say you had trouble in Yosemite, too? Maybe your skin is missing a growth factor or your vitamin/mineral/trace element scheme is wrong. Those look like the ulcers that develop in skin when pressure interrupts the blood supply.

 

Whatever, it should take care of itself and you just did too much climbing in too short a time for your skin to keep up.

Posted

As soon as you get back to the car at the end of the day, slather on "climb on" balm. Just before going to bed, slather on more. The next morning, apply 1-2 coats of Krazy glue to your pads. A surgeon told me they use the stuff on people, so it must not be toxic. I used to use tincture of Benzoin many years ago, but I prefer super glue now.

 

 

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