wbk Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Hello fellow CCers – I am hoping to practice aid climbing this winter. I realize index is probably the closest, best place for this near Seattle, but it’s looking a little cold and wet this weekend. Is it feasible to aid climb at vantage or is the rock considered too soft? Any suggested routes/areas? Thanks, Ben Quote
G-spotter Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 nailing vantage cracks = more toppled pillars Quote
Alex Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Clean aid at index might be wetter, but will not be colder than aiding at Vantage this time of year. Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 I usually just suffer in the wetness at index. City Park is good in the rain. Ironhorse is fun when its wet too(Ballznuts are useful if traversing right after start). The first belay is right in the path of a constant stream of water. Possible dry places for aid in rain: Squamish: Nightmare, Zombie Roof Index: A ways right of City Park when you round a corner and go up a hill, there is a dryish place. There is a crescent shaped crack under a roof. If I recall right, there was only one bolt for the descent. That was the best part! Needed a few LA's and KB's. My friends wall: we put up a string of bolt hangers on a huge roof for when we get to tired to hold on with our hands Quote
summerprophet Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Vantage is really not the place to practice Aid skills. The rock Quality and nature of available placements lends itself to brainless cam slotting / bolt clipping OR crapping you pants while A4 flakes creak and groan underneath you. Head to Index my freind. Quote
JosephH Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Wouldn't both cold, pouring rain and expanding cracks by definition be 'classic' aid in the Valley sense of the word? Going to Vantage and nailing loose columns while it's dumping slush sounds like a perfect way to practice for an El Cap winter ascent. Quote
underworld Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 go hit the upper town wall and bring it down... winter's a good time to be up there and not deal with other folks. Quote
Sol Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=419024 Quote
northvanclimber Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Squamish: Zombie Roof seeps during a downpour... wear your gortex and try not to mind the water dripping into your face out of the roof crack you're fishing gear into. Quote
OlympicMtnBoy Posted January 5, 2008 Posted January 5, 2008 If you do go to Vantage, pick out a dirty crack (towards middle east wall or something) and see if you can clean it up some for some spring free climbing! Quote
summerprophet Posted January 11, 2008 Posted January 11, 2008 Wouldn't both cold, pouring rain and expanding cracks by definition be 'classic' aid in the Valley sense of the word? Going to Vantage and nailing loose columns while it's dumping slush sounds like a perfect way to practice for an El Cap winter ascent. What Valley are you talking about? Yosemite is all about dicey pin scars in the sweet California sunshine. Certainly you can get your fill if expando cracks, and rain and snow, but by no means would this be considered the classic El Cap experience. Quote
underworld Posted January 24, 2008 Posted January 24, 2008 lack of skillz is the reason to aid climb... Quote
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