Jump to content

Hardest peak in the Olympics?


mountainmandoug

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

A question that came up recently. What is the technically hardest mountain in the Olympic Range? That would be the peak with hardest standard rout, not the peak with the hardest approach or the hardest rout.

 

How does rock quality enter in to your rankings? There are a lot of class 4s that will kill you there

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cruiser is a good climb. There are several options on the actual summit block. We scoped out the 5.7 variation, but opted for the east face (not sure the actual name?). If I recall, there's a 5.8 variation too. I don't have the guide book in front of me to confirm that, though.

The climbing is straight-forward, but protection is difficult to come by. There's lots of downward sloping shelves and not many cracks or pockets for gear... just means a little more run-out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like this question, it wasn't something I'd considered before. "The technically hardest standard route." I interpret this as "the peak with the technically hardest, easiest way up it". While there are routes on Constance that are technically harder than the standard routes on everything else in the Olympics, the standard route up Constance is only class 3. Cruiser is a good guess, but it's standard route is rated 5.0. I got to thinking about one's I've been up before and thought maybe Destroyer (5.4) or the Horn (5.5). So then I went through the guidebook and looked at each one, including all pinnacles and peaks, great and small, and discovered the answer to be....Infinity Tower, located on Alphabet ridge rated at 5.6. First free ascent 1985. Go get it boys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You looking for a partner Doug? We should get out some time, it's been a while since we were trekking through swamps in ESAR together. I was up on Cloudy Peak checking out Alphabet Ridge a couple springs ago, didn't have any gear though. I have some ideas for some 5.6+ route FAs too.

 

To add to the debate, aren't there a couple pinnacles where the standard route involved aid (Snifter Tower?). I don't have my guide book near, but there are probably folks out there who would consider A3 harder than 5.6. Hehehehe, I'd love to go repeat those (although I'd bet most are freeable).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...