Routes on Gunsight Peaks

[TimL]

Just checking out the trip reports on these spires and was wondering how many routes are on these three peaks. (Sorry, the green Beckey is on the other side of the big pond.) Hoping to go back there this coming summer to check out the area. It looks so amazing. For those who have climbed back there, what routes would you recommend doing? Thanks!

[Alex]

Tim. Let's go send.

[John Frieh]

Routes to do:

 

W face N peak

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=709879

 

NE face Main peak

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=588816

 

This TR covers both of those

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=705016

 

Traverse (awaits a free ascent):

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=702676

 

What else?

 

There is a sweet looking unclimbed line climbers left of the west face of the north peak route (Nelsons route)… series of roofs… PM me if you want some pics

 

Enjoy the hike

[Off_White]

Whoa, coughing up beta on projects? Does this mean "never again" for you on that approach?

[John Frieh]

A little competition never hurt anyone

[mythosgrl]

Whoa, coughing up beta on projects? Does this mean "never again" for you on that approach?

 

ha. i think it does.

[Blake]

Tim, there are basically 4 peaks, and a couple of gendarmes around the South peak.

 

Gunrunner traverses the whole range from N->S including every summit. Dan and I thought it was very fun, one of our most enjoyable days out in the mountains.

 

 

While it is technically still "awaiting a FFA" we used aid at one spot to swing out of a dead-end crack, and onto an arete with good holds a few feet to the right. If it weren't so late with daylight fading (and no headlamps), I would have just lowered off the cam, climbed more rightward to start, and had Dan swing over and snag the cam as he followed. Anyways, it's essentially a free route with one end-of-the day aid move that I expect future parties will easily avoid by just looking around a little better than we did. This spot was on the N Ridge of the N Peak.

 

Here's Dan at the pendulum piece.

 

The NE peak:

Unpublished route somewhere on the W Face (Kearney)

The N Ridge III 5.10- Fun! (First ~7 pitches of traverse)

 

The N Peak:

W Face - Nelson/Dietrich III 5.11+ or 5.10 A1

N Ridge - 5.10 A1

E Face - Doesn't sound too great. See beckey.

 

The Middle Peak:

SW arete/face - Beckey Route - 5.8? Looks great

N Ridge (up from the main notch) 2/3 pitches 5.6-5.9 w/options

E Face - 2006 - replaced 1979 Skoog route. III 5.10d radness

 

 

The South Peak:

S Ridge: II 5.8 cannonhole climb

W Face: unpublished up the corner/chimney (Cliff Leight)

E Face: "Accidental Discharge" 5.10 - Please don't climb this

 

 

That covers the bulk of it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 15, 2007 by Blake

[TimL]

The rock looks good, the area looks amazing. I hope to get back there this summer. It looks like whatever you climb back there is a worthy experience.

[Sol]

 

 

 

[wayne]

Gosh a tainted ascent? Here come the Russian siege critics for sure. Gotta drag my old ass in there next year

[Blake]

Go through some of this:

 

Get to some of this

 

 

And enjoy some nice clean rock

 

[Choada_Boy]

How many quickdraws should I bring? 20?

[Sol]