TimL Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Just checking out the trip reports on these spires and was wondering how many routes are on these three peaks. (Sorry, the green Beckey is on the other side of the big pond.) Hoping to go back there this coming summer to check out the area. It looks so amazing. For those who have climbed back there, what routes would you recommend doing? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Tim. Let's go send. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Routes to do: W face N peak http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=709879 NE face Main peak http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=588816 This TR covers both of those http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=705016 Traverse (awaits a free ascent): http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=702676 What else? There is a sweet looking unclimbed line climbers left of the west face of the north peak route (Nelsons route)… series of roofs… PM me if you want some pics Enjoy the hike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Whoa, coughing up beta on projects? Does this mean "never again" for you on that approach? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 A little competition never hurt anyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mythosgrl Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Whoa, coughing up beta on projects? Does this mean "never again" for you on that approach? ha. i think it does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 (edited) Tim, there are basically 4 peaks, and a couple of gendarmes around the South peak. Gunrunner traverses the whole range from N->S including every summit. Dan and I thought it was very fun, one of our most enjoyable days out in the mountains. While it is technically still "awaiting a FFA" we used aid at one spot to swing out of a dead-end crack, and onto an arete with good holds a few feet to the right. If it weren't so late with daylight fading (and no headlamps), I would have just lowered off the cam, climbed more rightward to start, and had Dan swing over and snag the cam as he followed. Anyways, it's essentially a free route with one end-of-the day aid move that I expect future parties will easily avoid by just looking around a little better than we did. This spot was on the N Ridge of the N Peak. Here's Dan at the pendulum piece. The NE peak: Unpublished route somewhere on the W Face (Kearney) The N Ridge III 5.10- Fun! (First ~7 pitches of traverse) The N Peak: W Face - Nelson/Dietrich III 5.11+ or 5.10 A1 N Ridge - 5.10 A1 E Face - Doesn't sound too great. See beckey. The Middle Peak: SW arete/face - Beckey Route - 5.8? Looks great N Ridge (up from the main notch) 2/3 pitches 5.6-5.9 w/options E Face - 2006 - replaced 1979 Skoog route. III 5.10d radness The South Peak: S Ridge: II 5.8 cannonhole climb W Face: unpublished up the corner/chimney (Cliff Leight) E Face: "Accidental Discharge" 5.10 - Please don't climb this That covers the bulk of it. Edited November 15, 2007 by Blake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted November 15, 2007 Author Share Posted November 15, 2007 The rock looks good, the area looks amazing. I hope to get back there this summer. It looks like whatever you climb back there is a worthy experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 Gosh a tainted ascent? Here come the Russian siege critics for sure. Gotta drag my old ass in there next year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 Go through some of this: Get to some of this And enjoy some nice clean rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 How many quickdraws should I bring? 20? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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