terminusnout Posted October 18, 2007 Posted October 18, 2007 does anyone out there have beta for shuksan's north face or north ridge, myself and two other friends are making the the trip west this spring from new hampshire..... Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted October 18, 2007 Posted October 18, 2007 Should be more beta than you need if you use the search function and select the North Cascades forum and/or try summitpost.org If that doesn't work let us know and we can help more. Welcome to cc.com, how's the weather in 'hampshah right now? Quote
Blake Posted October 18, 2007 Posted October 18, 2007 just to help out with your beta search, make sure you have the spelling correct. You've got it right in your post, but not in the title. Quote
crazy_t Posted October 18, 2007 Posted October 18, 2007 don't take New Hampshire for granite... Quote
Bug Posted October 19, 2007 Posted October 19, 2007 Stay high up the right side of the canyon till you get to the snowfield that takes you to the bottom. This is the most time saving beta that there is for this day on the mountain. Cross the valley and go up the other side to the base of the N Face. Start by moving left then up and slightly right through gullies when they exist. Top the face and proceed to the summit pyramid. Quote
G-spotter Posted October 19, 2007 Posted October 19, 2007 Make sure there is a lot of info about you in your post so if you die on the mountain or have to get rescued the media will find it while trolling thru your posts on cc.com. Quote
plexus Posted October 19, 2007 Posted October 19, 2007 And so Dru can find your booty gear on the mountain. Quote
spicoli11 Posted October 19, 2007 Posted October 19, 2007 I knew some nitpicker was gonna step up Quote
Maine-iac Posted October 21, 2007 Posted October 21, 2007 Hey, I am also planning an attempt over Thanksgiving break. Any info about the White Salmon route? I will be expecting cravasses, but should i expect a lot of them, or hidden ones? And is there much of a trail from the road, or is it all bushwacking? I read most of the TR, but they were all from spring or summer, none really from late in the fall. Quote
Serenity Posted October 21, 2007 Posted October 21, 2007 It's pretty much like walking, but then sometimes you have to use your hands to get up and over things. Quote
Mtnclimber Posted October 22, 2007 Posted October 22, 2007 (edited) I have done the route four times now. Best way to approach the north face is to drop straight down from chair eight and up the hillside to the north of the ski area that leads to the base of the route. On the crest of the ridge there are many animal paths and you can move quickly. Avoid going up the drainage unless you like lots of bush whacking---can be very dangerous in the winter due to extreme avalanche danger---a few people have already died over the years in this area. Once on the route its best to to the east or climbers left around the first overhanging glacier, them sharp west or climbers right between the glaciers. Becareful as you exit up a ramp that is either easy rock climbing or snow- there is at times steady rock fall here from about 1500 feet above----I figured and was correct that if you run accrossed this area at the same time the rock fall starts you can make it safely---just move fast. The rest of the face is very straight forward and fun. Post holing in early season and hard snow and ice during the fall. This route can be done year round. If you dicide to not down climb the route---then in late season you may have a few difficult cravasse crossing, climbing in and out of them---fun. Findig your way down Fischer chimnies can also be a challenge if you have not been there. Good luck---PM me if you have any questions. Edited October 22, 2007 by Mtnclimber Quote
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