[TR] Sherapa Peak - N Ridge - 9/22-24

[webnick2007]

Chad and I climbed the North Ridge of Sherpa last weekend. Aside from a little wind and cold rock in the shade, we had stellar weather (and some stars by the camp fire) and radical views from the ridge.

 

The ridge climbing was fun but in crux sections, the rock was actually in poorest shape. We left camp at the talus bolder field at 8:30a, hit the ridge at 10:00a then, climbed 30ft 5.7 onto it. From there, climbed 5.ish for an hour then into 5 with 5.6/7 steps until the notch. This took longer than expected, unroped and kinda fast (that's faster than most but closer to average).

 

At 2pm we left the notch deciding a proper line was hard to pick out and we should just try it, or retreat (some rap slings couple pitches before the notch dropping back to talus). After the notch-knife, we started a 1/2 pitch of 5.7, then a 1/2 pitch 5.8 on crap rock and a 1/2 pitch of 5.6 in a cool 2" crack.

 

Topping out at 3:45pm.

 

The decent was absolutely killer. It never ended and went from down climbing 1000ft, climbing back up the wrong gully (w/ the best 5.6 unroped), bouldering down the ridge, getting forced back down 800, and down-climbing technical rock in the dark (phew).

 

'Hit the saddle at 8:30p. Then sand, to scree to talus to boulders to bigger boulders. Between stream crossings and climbing, there was a lot of wondering if something's going to pull out from above or break underfoot

 

Chad had some couscous left over so we stayed an extra night. It should be noted, again, the descent takes forever. Beautiful scenery.

 

GOOD GEAR

8 nuts

0.5-2.5 cams

6 a draws

40m rope (yep)

headlamps

 

Climbers on Stuart:

 

Easier route finding:

 

Chad on top (moment of silence; he dropped a camera on descent):

 

Nick at meadows:

[rob]

that descent is a drag

 

and some stars by the camp fire

Campfire? Where did you have a campfire?

[TeleRoss]

at their camp?

[Off_White]

May as well announce that you brought a machete on the approach! Expect a call from The Man anytime now....

 

Thanks for the TR

 

 

[Jens]

Love that shot of sherpa balanced rock!

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I don't do campfires up their but is the rule no fires above 5,000 feet? Isn't that meadow somehere about 5,000? They might be OK?

[ivan]

May as well announce that you brought a machete on the approach! Expect a call from The Man anytime now....

 

Thanks for the TR

 

i remember descending the sherpa one frigid winter night, bone cold and not really looking forward to spending the night in my 32 degree bag and bivi sack on the frozen moraine, only to see a campfire glowly spendidly in the woods below - the offender turned out to be one of the great names of north-western mountaineering, and i could totally give a shit about anyone who has a problem w/ having a fire in the winter - WWGAD? (what would grizzly adams do? or john muir, firchrisakes!?)

[Bug]

No fires above 5000 is correct.

Just don't build it on a bed of pine needles and don't leave a giant rock monument (fire ring). Disperse the ashes and chunks, spinkle some needles, dirt, rocks, grass, sticks, whatever, and most people will not be able to tell there was a fire there.

 

[webnick2007]

I guess if you don't have a fire pan you can avoid scarring rocks and bury your ashes. I'd like to skinny up Stuart before the days get too short.

 

"Bring a compass - it sucks having to eat your friends." --Montana saying