Leavenworth: Z-Crack toprope beta?

[Sherri]

Wanted to set-up a toprope on Z-crack to do some practice laps but wasn't sure if the best way to get there was via the top of Meatgrinder(do you drop to it via that slopey edge with the tiny tree? or is there another way to access Z's anchors without topping out at Meatgrinder? )

 

Thanks!

[Alpinfox]

It's not too bad to get to the Zcrack anchor from the top of Meatgrinder. Just stay on belay from the MG anchor and traverse on that ledge. Probably easiest if you haul up a second rope and use that to set up the Zcrack TR. You could probably get there from the scramble up the right side of the formation, but I think that would be kinda sketchy and you would want a belay from the top of the formation to get to the Zcrack anchors. That might work. I've never tried it.

 

I used to think Zcrack would be a sketchy lead, but I TRed it last weekend and the gear opporunities looked a lot better than I had remembered from previous laps. I'll just lead it next time.

 

 

Z-crack is OK, but I'd recommend toproping Deb's crack instead (or also). It's slightly harder (10d), but is more sustained and has a bunch of different style crack climbing compressed into a small package. VERY easy to set up a TR. You can also try to TR the 11b (yeah right) ZigZag crack next to it. It's impossible.

 

 

[Sherri]

Perfect! Thanks, that's just the info I needed.

 

I'll check out Deb's next time, too. Sounds like a good place for some serious crack practice.

[selkirk]

Hmm, I've contemplated Z-crack but that unprotected boulder start spooks the hell out of me!!

[TimL]

I think you can protect it at the bottom with a yellow alien or something like that. Its really not bad, maybe a little scary but its all there.

[G-spotter]

Don't forget to contribute to the gory wads of tape underneath Deb's Crack!

 

Z Crack = sweet fingers to hand

Deb's Crack = the back of your hands + extensive road rash

[Alpinfox]

Selkirk, the start to Zcrack is not unprotectable.

 

Evidence:

 

 

 

 

I saw no tape at the base of Deb's crack last weekend, nor did I feel the need for tape.

 

YMMV.

[Kat_Roslyn]

But there was a lot of ballyhooing Alpinefox.

 

I think that is a funny pic of the newell, obviously getting all hot and bothered and stopping to take off his jacket at the crux

[DirtyHarry]

That pic of Newell climbing in tights makes me all hot and bothered.

[bobbyperu]

oh my goodness...pax! where do you dig this stuff up from? i think i have a good small cam, and a wire above that before i even step off the chunk...then get up on your feet and sink sumpin else. fun route

[Alpinfox]

oh my goodness...pax! where do you dig this stuff up from?

 

I have a vast library of photos (both incriminating and otherwise) that I keep on hand for just this sort of occasion (and the occasional blackmail scheme).

 

The pic I have of you in that hot tub we poached in the Methow would probably get some of the ladies on here hawt and bothered. Lemme know if you want me to post it with your phone number.