[TR] Prusik Peak - Stanley-Burgner Route 9/9/2007

[SmilingWhiteKnuckles]

Trip: Prusik Peak - Stanley-Burgner Route

 

Date: 9/9/2007

 

Trip Report:

It is hard to conceive of the first ascent of this route in 1968. Must have been a real triumph ten years before the modern SLCD was invented. Triumph was certainly prominent among the strong feelings I had upon reaching the summit. Another was that it was good to be pushed right to the edge of my ability and stamina.

 

This is one of those 5.9 routes put up by hardmen of yesteryear that slaps you around a bit, leaving scrapes and bruises, possibly a broken ego. But still, days later, there is a feeling of achievement and joy at climbing this incredible, beautiful route, and appropriately, the enchantment has woven its spells around my mind.

 

ScottG and I met on the top of Forbidden a couple years ago and Marko reintroduced us electronically and we made plans to do Prusik car to car in September. We are both new fathers so the surgical strike appealed to us more than it might to others with expendable time...

 

Just as Scott lead the way in planning the trip, so to did he blast the pace all day from darkness to light and darkness again. While the Dude abides, the Gangler strides.

 

We met at 2:30am in Bellevue off I-90 and made good time, leaving the car at 5:15am. Although, we'd initially thought to go in via Snow Lake, on the drive, we decided to use the Colchuck Lake approach for the scenery (a good decision!). By 6:45am, we'd reached the lake.

 

Halfway up the Aasgard trail, there were goat tracks and then a big piss stain. Roger has taught me to tune in to things like this, and although I couldn't smell the animals as he might and I certainly didn't reach down to see if it was warm, the wet stain in the trail made me think a goat was near. A little bit further up the trail a feeling crept through me. Glancing right across the slope, there he was, papa, still and staring at me. Then, I saw mom screened behind larches chowing away.

 

Mom headed downhill and then the kid appeared scrambling after her and the young family moved down on their morning routine. Thoughts of my own family filled me as I watched them...

 

Scott had taken the slabs to the right of the bulge in the center of the basin, but I knew he was still ahead. Pretty soon, I saw him under the small falls at the top of the basin. We scrambled the rocks above, and by 8:30am, we were at the top of Aasgard. Things were going well.

 

The sun hit us over the rise and damn, it's been awhile since I've been up in the Lost World. Wow.

 

 

Shortly after leaving a pack at Prusik Pass, we were at the base of the route, eating a Gobbler and getting ready to roll. We had a 60m rope and decided we'd lead it in 4 pitches if it worked so that we'd each get two leads.

 

Scott started up the first pitch at 11:05am. Upon rereading some route descriptions, the crack's width is well annotated. Somehow I didn't expect it. But it was to become typical of the route, the unexpected variety and the regular bouts of offwidth. Coming up to Scott in the trees, I gave props where due, nice lead man.

 

 

I got the next lead up a crack from the belay and then across exposed chicken heads and up into the crack and chimney system which leads to the summit. This pitch was a blast. Hard enough to be really fun, continually steep but punctuated by ledges. Eventually I built a belay on a small ledge about 20 feet below the massive chockstone.

 

 

Scott pulled a stiff move up a crack and squeezed his 6'6" body up behind the chockstone. From there he opted to bring me (with our small pack) up before leading the flared chimney.

 

This thing was gnarly. Sure, there are many many strong climbers that fly up this route, who handle chimneys and offwidths with grace and calm. Aspirants, we tip our hats to these climbers, but we are not them. He took it facing right and hung a bit, aided a bit, grunting his way up it as I encouraged him on, thankful that it was him, wondering how it would go come my turn.

 

 

I took it left and let's just say that we were happy to be on the ledge above in the sunshine and so near the top. But dang I was getting tired. Already???

 

So after reestablishing the belay below the final dihedral and refueling a bit, I headed up the final pitch. Shit, these are the goods! The first weird block/bulge gave me pause. Placing to the left of the block in a hand size crack, I couldn't quite get situated to place more pro above it on that side. Ended up going up the wider crack on the right somehow. Phew.

 

 

Up in the final corner, my strength was waning fast, but here it was, more wide stuff! At least the pocketed crack on the right hand wall would provide good pro. There was a stance at the base of this and somehow above, I was able to get a really good blue cam. My last two nuts weren't the best and it was surprising how little gear I had left!

 

Above the stance, the chicken heads on the face disappeared. I couldn't get a good jam in the thin crack, but up, up, mind searching frantically for holds as the form went to crap and the strength oozed out like liquid from a punctured bag.

 

And suddenly, the lame heel toe jam of my right foot popped, my arms gave way and I was gone! What time passed?? NExt5 rememberance, eyes open, flying headfirst down along the cliff like Superman, but slowing. I fell!! I'm alright. I'm upside down. Body feels alright, but shit, I fell. Blue cam held.

 

Then "dammit, dammit!" Invectives. I didn't even look down at Scott. Shocked. Shocked and pissed. Pissed and determined. Almost without pause, a bit foolishly fast, I get back on it. Back up to the high point and I can't remember how I got beyond it. Perhaps a chickenhead appeared out left...One more piece and grunting up a little further, I get to another strenuous stance from which I place the big gold #4.

 

A ledge off left if I can only stretch to reach it. But no yogi! No yogi! I switch to a desperate lieback off the crack, right foot near my hands, left foot slapping at the face like a robotic fish. The strength is going, going. A lunge and somehow I am on the ledge. Wahoo!!! I mantle up to the top and holler. Wahoo!!!

 

Pretty soon I have a belay set and the shoes come off, feet dangling over the edge so I can watch Scott. He moves quickly up, but the first bulge/block makes him grunt and this makes me smile. Then the finish, well he grunts a bit with the effort, but makes it look pretty easy. He comes all the way up the crack not really needing the ledge off the the left...But we are on top and the day is amazing.

 

 

An icy plunge in Inspiration/Talisman Lake with the rising trout just before the sun dips behind the Witch's Tit caps the climb and restores us for a satisfied walk through the upper lakes, down Aasgard and out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

60m rope. Medium+ alpine rack. Doubles (cams) from thin fingers to big hands.

 

Approach Notes:

Yeah, it's pretty long.

[olyclimber]

thanks, i'll miss getting into the enchantments one last time this fall...but i've got your pictures.

[Marko]

Wonderful!

[catbirdseat]

Great trip report. Edge-of-the-seat all the way!

[DRep]

Awesome dude. I hate to say it but im glad someone besides me has fallen on the route. I love that route though. sweet pics.

[Yeman]

Great TR! I wonder when you guys made it back to the car.

[plexus]

"Aspirants, we tip our hats to these climbers, but we are not them. He took it facing right and hung a bit, aided a bit, grunting his way up it as I encouraged him on, thankful that it was him, wondering how it would go come my turn."

 

To this I say, "Bravo!" Had fun reading this.

[SemoreJugs]

A truly classic climb. I cant imagine how your partner of 6'6" got through the OW. I'm 6'0" and followed that pitch and remember making about 1-2 feet of progress per minute. I guess the idea is to not stuff your entire body into the chimney/OW?

 

The final pitch is spectacular. It looks straightforward after doing the OW, but then you get on it and are thinking, "this aint so easy". The best is the final 10 feet of curving (and possibly more than vertical?) crack. 2 or three big moves and BAM you are topping out! Not too common to finish an alpine route like that.

 

Cheers to another baptism!

[Bug]

Well done and well written!

Cheers!

[Alex]

nice, great route, great time of year!

[Dannible]

Nice. I fell 3 times on those last moves up to the summit. Pretty satisfying to mantle right onto the top.

[scottgg]

Great TR! I wonder when you guys made it back to the car.

Twas indeed a grand adventure, great write-up John! Limped back to the car just after 10:00pm, making a 16:45 day. John's a super-solid alpine dude, but I had no idea he was such a writer!

[glm]

Great report and thanks for the photos! I haven't been in the enchantments in years but this just reinforces that I REALLY need to get back up there soon.

Also, as was stated above, a really well written TR, fun to read and it makes you want to be there, grunting, falling, and all.

 

Way to go!