ice tools

[Cpt.Caveman]

I use hobnailed boots.

[iain]

i chop steps and only eat kippered herring at bivies.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I use hemp ropes and smoke em at bivies

[mattp]

Cavey,

Please forgive my ignorance, and the fact that I am too lazy to go back to the old threads on this topic. But I am wondering: is the leashless thing based on some practicality or a safety-related concern or is it more a matter of style?

[Lambone]

mostly a matter of style, not to look cool, but it changes the style of climbing quite a bit, mostly different types of resting techniques and such. Some argue it's safer on steep mixed routes cause if you fall you won't end up hanging by one arm and tweaking a shoulder.

 

People that say that mixed climbing is aid climbing are kinda funny. Of course it is, but with one major difference. Any patient fat bastard can aid climb, but the people doing steep mixed routes are strong as all hell especialy in the mid section. Aid climbing in aiders is easy, aid climbing overhanging rock and ice with tools is fuckin hard! leashless or not...

 

[ 10-24-2002, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

[Figger_Eight]

I'm fat and slow. I'm also clumsy and drop my tools a lot. That's why I use leashes.

[thelawgoddess]

quote:

---

Originally posted by mattp:

is the leashless thing based on some practicality or a safety-related concern or is it more a matter of style?

---

more about "style" but even more about technique. you should see what people like isaac can do with those things! the word is they're best used for mixed sport climbing, but that's probably a personal choice.

[fishstick]

It's largely about style, but also about freedom of movement. I was very skeptical and in a sense still am (or just chicken-shit to initially take the sharp end knowing I'm going to have to blast in a bunch of screws hanging on by hand strength). Having tried them however, I think it's also about the added fun of a fresh challenge. It really forces one to think, to use their feet, to climb with their brain. It's not totally unlike the idea of an experienced alpine skier switching to tele or boarding for a new experience.

 

GB

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by mattp:

Cavey,

Please forgive my ignorance, and the fact that I am too lazy to go back to the old threads on this topic. But I am wondering: is the leashless thing based on some practicality or a safety-related concern or is it more a matter of style?

---

I think people believe it's more pracitcal. Less energy wasted type of deal.

 

Look at me I am cool and leashless.

[Lambone]

yeah, I like to try it on TR whenever I can...i think it does alot for your technique. plus you can shake out more and get the blood flowing to your fingers better, kinda like when cimbing rock.

 

try it on TR when you get a chance mattp, you'll dig it.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I hope to see all you guys climbing leashless this winter. If you don't your sissies

[Lambone]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

quote:

---

Originally posted by mattp:

Cavey,

Please forgive my ignorance, and the fact that I am too lazy to go back to the old threads on this topic. But I am wondering: is the leashless thing based on some practicality or a safety-related concern or is it more a matter of style?

---

I think people believe it's more pracitcal. Less energy wasted type of deal.

 

Look at me I am cool and leashless.

---

Thats funny, I was TRing leashless on the Deeping Wall last year and people were giving me shit like I was being a show off or something....

 

I was like, man just try it, it's way fun and not really much harder...on TR at leas

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by thelawgoddess:

quote:

---

Originally posted by mattp:

is the leashless thing based on some practicality or a safety-related concern or is it more a matter of style?

---

more about "style" but even more about technique. you should see what people like isaac can do with those things! the word is they're best used for mixed sport climbing, but that's probably a personal choice.

---

Hehe some people swallow swords too. I'd like to see the average joe at his limits on a multi pitch WI4 or whatever And not on TR.

 

[ 10-24-2002, 12:13 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[iain]

plus you get to use funny looking things like this:

 

[Cpt.Caveman]

We'll see who's leading at their limits without leashes soon enough

[iain]

and this...try to plant that shaft in the snow

 

 

But trask, greg w. et al. won't use this one because it is called a SCUD and that would be unpatriotic!

[David_Parker]

One "advantage"I noticed last year in Banff was that you can switch tools from one hand to the other easily. You can grab one tool with both hands and then end up moving one tool to a new placement and grabbing it with the other hand. Also, when clipping pro, I noticed one guy just rested the tool over his shoulder, completely freeing up his hand to deal with the pro or clipping a bolt. No dangling and trying to re-grab problems. For you "ice climbing is aid" freaks, I'll argue leashless is just as much aid because it makes it easier than using leashes in many ways!

[bolt_clipper]

Ice climbing is aid unless you take off your crampons, drop you tools, and campus your way up using columns as holds. Duh!!!!