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[TR] Static Point - The Pillar 6/27/2007


Otto

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Trip: Static Point - The Pillar

 

Date: 6/27/2007

 

Trip Report:

David W. and I went up The Pillar with an eye to update the fixed hardware. We rappeled the route and removed all the old, quarter-inch bolts and replaced them with 3/8-inch stainless bolts and Fixe hangers. The belay anchors were replaced with stainless chains and rings. The old holes were drilled out with David's new power drill and so were reused. New belay anchors were added at the tops of pitches 2, 3, and 5. The photos were taken the next week, when we were joined by Dan and his camera.

 

Otto and David, with Red Bull, at Lost Charms tree. We didn't get photos of the first two pitches, but the first pitch is stellar - smooth pure friction slab.

StaticPoint_ThePillar001.jpg

 

The base of the Pillar ledge, at the first new anchor.

StaticPoint_ThePillar002.jpg

 

Getting up the right side of the Pillar. One can either layback the flake edge, or climb the crack in the middle.

StaticPoint_ThePillar003.jpg

 

Dan at the top of the Pillar, at the second new anchor.

StaticPoint_ThePillar004.jpg

 

David studying prospects... He's clipped to a pre-existing fat bolt at the right side of the Pillar top.

StaticPoint_ThePillar005.jpg

 

We didn't take any more photos, but the fifth pitch involves pulling the overlap on natural gear, really fun climbing. It's good to have the new anchor at its top so one can skip the rappel over to the On Line anchors. Now one can rappel straight down the Pillar on good anchors, which applies to all the climbs in the area of The Pillar.

 

Some of the steel and tat removed.

StaticPoint_ThePillar006.jpg

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You're most welcome, it was a lot of fun. You'll also find upgraded bolts on the Green Crab traverse, and on the lower pitches of Shock Treatment.

 

Agreed, it's a great place. Let's hope the yahoos with guns don't shoot up the dam buildings too many times, losing access for us all.

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Well, yes, I have some goals for replacement at Three O'Clock Rock also. I have been learning the techniques from a master craftsman, but I'm not ready to run the power drill yet. I was thinking of trying re-drilling some holes with my hand drill first.

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