[TR] Static Point - The Pillar 6/27/2007

[Otto]

Trip: Static Point - The Pillar

 

Date: 6/27/2007

 

Trip Report:

David W. and I went up The Pillar with an eye to update the fixed hardware. We rappeled the route and removed all the old, quarter-inch bolts and replaced them with 3/8-inch stainless bolts and Fixe hangers. The belay anchors were replaced with stainless chains and rings. The old holes were drilled out with David's new power drill and so were reused. New belay anchors were added at the tops of pitches 2, 3, and 5. The photos were taken the next week, when we were joined by Dan and his camera.

 

Otto and David, with Red Bull, at Lost Charms tree. We didn't get photos of the first two pitches, but the first pitch is stellar - smooth pure friction slab.

 

The base of the Pillar ledge, at the first new anchor.

 

Getting up the right side of the Pillar. One can either layback the flake edge, or climb the crack in the middle.

 

Dan at the top of the Pillar, at the second new anchor.

 

David studying prospects... He's clipped to a pre-existing fat bolt at the right side of the Pillar top.

 

We didn't take any more photos, but the fifth pitch involves pulling the overlap on natural gear, really fun climbing. It's good to have the new anchor at its top so one can skip the rappel over to the On Line anchors. Now one can rappel straight down the Pillar on good anchors, which applies to all the climbs in the area of The Pillar.

 

Some of the steel and tat removed.

[hanman]

Thanks guys- your efforts are greatly appreciated. I hope to replace some rusty wedges and chain on Online prior to the end of the summer.

 

 

MH

 

 

 

[Bug]

Yo.

If you get out and do this again somewhere, PM me. I have a couple hangers and bolts I can contribute.

[Cobra_Commander]

David studying prospects... He's clipped to a pre-existing fat bolt at the right side of the Pillar top.

 

There's almost an EXACT duplicate of this photo in Cascade Select Vol II, on Total Soul.

[Jens]

Thanks guys!

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So many people don't realize what a gem static point is!

[Otto]

You're most welcome, it was a lot of fun. You'll also find upgraded bolts on the Green Crab traverse, and on the lower pitches of Shock Treatment.

 

Agreed, it's a great place. Let's hope the yahoos with guns don't shoot up the dam buildings too many times, losing access for us all.

[Otto]

Sounds good, Bug, thanks. Watch for a PM.

[mattp]

If you guys want to replace some old bolts, there are still a few left in Darrington. How are you at running a hammer?

[Otto]

Well, yes, I have some goals for replacement at Three O'Clock Rock also. I have been learning the techniques from a master craftsman, but I'm not ready to run the power drill yet. I was thinking of trying re-drilling some holes with my hand drill first.

[mattp]

The power drill will give you better holes and a lot easier if you don't have to carry it too far. The old flintstone rig just doesn't quite produce the same clean hole but it works.

[Bug]

PM recieved and replied to.

I'm diggiing for my kit.